
Cbss 
Book. 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



KEIM'S GUIDE 




OTOMAC RIVER 



;hesapeake and the james 



i SEA TO NORTHERN PORTS. 



)S of delightful Summer Excursions by Water, from Washington 
the Great Falls of the Potomac, to all Points on the Potomac 
River, Portress Monroe, Norfolk, Richmond; Balti- 
more, Philadelphia, New York and Boston. 



WASHINGTON, D. C. 
1881. 



■ 




I 



riDE 






RIVER, 



CHESAPEAKE BAY AND JAMES RiVER, 




H 



T 




E 



NORTHERN PORTS. 



A SERIES OF INTERESTING AND INSTRUCTIVE EXCURSIONS 
BY WATER FROM WASHINGTON. 



By de B. Randolph Keim. 

{Washitigton Correspondent.) 

Compiler of " Keim's Hand-Book of Washington and Its Environs," 

'■ Washington Illustrated," etc., etc. 




WASHINGTON, D. C. 

BY THE COMPILER, 



Copyright 1881, by de B. Randolph Keim. 



^^ Standard Works lingjon, -!^- 

ILLUSTEATED : ,\ ^Q )0K 

Of 

cisl^ingbn anb |rs ||imroiis. 

By DeB. RANDOLPH KEIM. 



Containing MAPS of the District of Col'-/nn.bia and the City 
of "Washiington. DIAG-RAMS (15) of flooi xns. of the princi- 
pal public buildings of interest, and upwards of 150 superior WoocL CutS 
by distinguished engravers. 

This Handbook was compiled as a guide to strangers and a work of ref- 
erence. Besides being extensively patronized by tourists and temporary 
sojourners at the Capital, it is exclusively used by the different branches of 
the government, journalists, and others, for data on all subjects pertaining to 
the governing city of the nation, its history, public buildings, -divers public 
and private institutions, objects of interest, and works of art. 

No public or private library should be without it. 272 pages. 

PRICE, 75 CENTS. 

Sent post-paid on receipt of price. Address 

DeB. RANDOLPH KEIM, 

WASHINGTON, D. C. 

For sale at the principal bookstores and hotels m the city. 



Wi^SHIlTaTOIT, 



ITS 



Public and Private Edifices, Interiors, 

MONUMENTS, AND WORKS OF ART. 



This work contains a complete collection of engravings on wood, by emi- 
nent artists, printed on superior paper with descriptive matter, and elegantly 
bound in cloth suitable for a souvenir of VVashmgton. One hundred engrav- 
ings, album form, size, 6x9 inches. 

PRICE, $1.25. 

Sent post-paid on receipt of price. Address 

DeB. RANDOLPH KEIM, 

WASHINGTON, D. C. 
Or for sale at all the principal bookstores and hotels in the city. 






OOJSITEJ^TS, 



PAGE. 

An Histokical Preface 5 

Engraving. — The Potomac in front of Washington, 4. 

Introductory Information 7 

The Potomac Kiver 9 

Engravings. — The Capitol, 9. The Executive Mansion, 11. 

Excursion I. From Washington to the Great Falls 
of the Potomac 13 

Engravings. — Georgetown and Aqueduct, 13. Cabin John Bridge, 16. 
I'he Great Falls of the Potomac, 17. 

Excursion II. From Washmgton to the mouth of 
^he Potomac 19 

■'■• ? ivings. — Arlington, 20. Washington from the Potomac, 21. The 

. . ith of the Anacostia River. 21. The United States Barracks, 22. 

.". e Navy Yard; 23. Alexandria, 25. Fort Foote, 26. Fort Wash- 
■, i'.,tcn, 27. Mount Vernon from the river, 28. Same from the Alex- 
■ndria road, 29. Indian Head, 31. The Possum Nose, 33. Quantico, 

J. Aquia Creek, 37. Matthias Point, 39. Nomini Cliffs, 41. 

/ashington's Birthplace — :88i, 43. Same — 1732, 45. Blackistone 
■^land, 47. Piney Point, 48. Priest's Point, 49. 

:URSI0N III. From Washington to Fortress 
onroe and iSTorfolk , 51 

^ravittgs. — Smith's Point, 53. Fortress Monroe, 55. 

:URSiON lY. From Washington to Richmond. . 61 

^raznngs. — Jamestown Island, 63. Ruins of Jamestown, 65. Har- 
son's Landing, 67. 

;URSiON Y. From Washington to Philadelphia, 
i^ew York, and Boston by sea , 71 

E?tgravings. — Cape Charles, 72. Cape Henry, 73. 

Excursion YI. From Washington to Baltimore. 75 

Engravings — Mouth of the Patuxent, 76, Mouth of the Severn, 77. High- 
lands of the Magothy, 78. Entrance to the Patapsco, 79. Baltimore from 
the Harbor, 79. 

(3) 




L 



An Historical Preface. 



The annually increasing interest of the traveling pub- 
lic in the Potomac Riyer and Chesapeake Bay, and 
the demand for a reliable Hand-book of poimlar infor- 
mation on these water routes leading from the governing 
city of the iSTation to the ocean, has suggested to the 
compiler the preparation of this little work as a compan- 
ion to his comprehensive Hand-book of Washington and 
its environs. 

The entire surface of this mundane sphere presents no 
expanse of inland water more beautiful to the eye, more 
munificently endowed with aquatic wealth, and, at the 
same time, more replete with tradition and history, than 
the great Bay of Chesapeake, and those magnificent fiu- 
vial highways, the Potomac and the James, tributary to 
it. Upon the banks of the James the first germ of Eng- 
lish colonization took root upon the virgin soil of the 
Xew World. It is true that Menendez, under the aus- 
pices of Spain, had established the first settlement from 
the Old World at St. Augustine, in sunny Florida, in 
1565 ; that Espejo, from among the Spanish conquerors 
of Mexico, had founded Santa Pe, in the very heart of 
the continent, in 1585, and that Port E,oyal, in Nova 
Scotia, in 1()05, was made a permanent settlement imder 
the royal standard of Prance ; but Jamestown, on the 
James river, in Virginia, was the first permanent settle- 
ment of that race in whose veins coursed the rich admix- 
ture of Anglo-Saxon blood — a people foremost in coloniza- 
tion, foremost in the civilization of the age, and 
ultimately, by prowess of intellect and force, the domi- 
nant race on the fairest portions of the ^N'orth American 
continent. 

More than a decade before the Puritans of the May- 
flower, under the civil and religious leadership of Carver 
and Robinson, landed upon the storm-beaten and inhos- 
pitable peninsula of Cape Cod, Captain Christopher 

(5) 



6 HISTORICAL PREFACE. 

jS'ewport, accompanied by that daring navigator, Bar- 
tholomew G-osnold, the discoverer of Capes Ann and 
Cod, in 1602, and that indomitable explorer, John Smith, 
sighted the capes of the Chesapeake Bay, and on May 
13, 1(307, under the patent of the London Company 
granted 1606, and in the name of their sovereign, James, 
planted and named after him the settlement of James- 
town, on the James river. 

While the banks of the James gave birth to the first 
English settlement on the continent of i^orth America, 
the Potomac, the other great tributary of the Chesapeake, 
gave birth to the immortal Washington, the commander- 
in-chief of the armies of the Rebellion against a tyran- 
nous king, and the first President of the United States of 
America. Here also repose the mortal remains of this 
great patriot. 5^ear its shores also rest the ashes of 
Patrick Henry, whose fiery eloquence struck the key-note 
of hostility to the encroachments of kingly despotism ; of 
Jefferson, the author of the Declaration of Independence ; 
of Peyton Randolph, President of the First Continental 
Congress ; of Edmund Randolph, the framer of the orig- 
inal draft of the Constitution of the United States 
(1787) ; of Madison and Monroe ; and, to cap the climax 
of this remarkable chain of events, upon its shores stands 
the Capital of this nation of millions of human creatures 
who trace the foundations of the civil and religious 
liberty which they now enjoy back to the principles enun- 
ciated and established by these heroic men, aided by 
their compeers of ^ew England. 

The object of this little companion is to bring to his 
attention as he glides along over the watery way, in a sort 
of panoramic progression, everything of interest in his- 
tory, art, and nature, feeling that in no way can the 
traveller more profitably ad^l to the pleasures of his 
journey. 

The compiler wishes to express his deep sense of appre- 
ciation of the invaluable assistance rendered him by the 
Coast and Geodetic Survey of the United States in the 
preparation of the body of this work. The superior en- 
gravings of this work are by H. H. ]Srichols, of Wash- 
ington. deB. R. K. 

Washington, D. C.,1881, 



INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 



Travelers and excursionists departing from Washing- 
ton for points on the Potomac River, the Chesapeake 
Bay, or James River, have a choice of a number of 
first-class steamers leaving on stated days. 

Steamers. — The principal lines are the Inland and 
Seaboard Steamboat and the Potomac Steamboat 
Companies for Potomac Pdver Landings, making connec- 
tions at Norfolk with an old-csrablishad line of ocean- 
steamers. ; tlie Potomac Transportation Company, 
plying between Washington, Alexandria, and Baltimore ; 
the Clyde Line between Washington, Philadelphia, 
Providence, and Boston ; the Upper Potomac Steam- 
boat Company to river landings ; the Mount Yernon 
boat, leaving daily at 10 a. m., and returning at 3:30 
p. m., having the exclusive right of landmg visitors at 
the home and tomb of Washington ; and the Potomac 
Ferry Co3Ipany, hourly during the day between Wash- 
ington and Alexandria. 

The days and hours of departure are announced in the 
newspapers. 

Fares. — The rates of passage by all these lines are very 
reasonable, and during the excursion season are placed at 
figures, and for a length of time, extremely advantageous 
to travelers and excursionists. 

Hotels.— At all points accommodations may be had by 
those who wish to land, but it would be well beforehand 
to make inquiries of an officer of the steamer. At prin- 
cipal points patronized by travelers, the hotel accommo- 
dations are generally excellent and charges reasonable. 
Special rates can be had by those spending some time. 

Summer Resorts. — Every year available points on the 
Potomac River and Chesapeake Bay are being occupied 
by enterprising parties for the enjoyment of the inhabit- 
ants of Washington during the heated term. Of late 
years the older places have been refitted and new ones 
added. It is now no longer necessary for citizens of 
Washington to travel to distant mountains, fashionable 
watering places or springs, for comfort or pleasure, as 
the Capital has its own summer places, within the means 
and easy access of those of moderate circumstances. 

(V) 



8 INTRODTJCTORY INFORMATION. 

Fishing. — The Potomac is celebrated for the excellence 
of its lish. Shad and Herring are the principal seine 
fish. Seining is one of the leading industries of the 
river. During the summer, fall, and winter months, 
those fond of piscatorial sports find ample opportmiity to 
indulge themselves with rod and line in pursuit of the 
White Perch^ Black Bass^ and Bock. The latter have 
been caught weighing one hundred and fifty pounds. In 
May and August Sturgeon also abound, and have been 
taken as high as the Little Tails. Winter Shad and 
Carp also abound in the proper season. '■'Plank Shad " 
excursions from Washington to the fishing grounds on 
the lower river are a favorite recreation for residents of 
the Capital during the spring and early summer months. 

Game. — The Water Fowl of the Potomac have a 
world-wide renown. These comprise tlie most delicious 
of all game, the Canvas Back^ and its close competitors 
for popularity, the Bed Head and Black Head ducks. 
These, belonging to the drift fowl, congregate in large 
numbers in the middle of the river, and feed in deep 
w^ater by diving, and may be seen from the steamers. 
The Blue and Green Wing Teal, Mallard, Black Buck, and 
Widgeon, all marsh fowls, are seen near the shores, feed- 
ing on wild oats, and abound during September and Oc- 
tober. The Swayi and Wild Goose of the Potomac, also 
drift fowls, are also famous, arriving in October and No- 
vember, and leaving in March. The young swan is con- 
sidered a great delicacy in the markets of Washington. 
In former years the drift and marsh fowl Avere taken by 
hunters in the vicinity of Washington, but are now never 
found in any numbers above Mount Vernon. The swan 
never approaches nearer than the Occoquan, about 
thirty miles below Washington, and thence to near the 
mouth of the river. The only water fowl which breeds 
on the Potomac is the Summer Buck; the rest are migra- 
tory. 

Those who indulge in hunting aquatic fowl, frequent 
the favorite resorts of this game, easily accessible by 
steamer. 

The extensive marsh off Washington, and along the 
banks below, during the autumn months abounds in Beed 
Birds and Ortolan, which are "bagged" in large num- 
bers by city sportsmen. 



The Potomac and James Rivers, 

THE CHESAPEAKE 8AY, 

AND A.3Sr 

Ocean Voyage to th.e Uortliern Cities. 



"We suppose the reader to have acquamted himself with 
the niTmerous and varied attractions of Washington, the 
governing city of the nation. Xo other city in the coun- 
try possesses so much to interest and instruct the visitor. 
Here is the Capitol, with its massive architectural propor- 
tions and mighty iron dome ; its vast and magnificent 




THE CAPITOL OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMKRICA. 

Legislative Halls, its libraries, bronze and marble stair- 
cases, sumptuous apartments and richly-gilded ante- 
rooms, beautiful statuary, paintings and frescoes ; the 

(9) 



10 THE POTOMAC RIVER. 

Executive Mansion^ the official home of the chief magis- 
trate of the people, with its elegant salons and conserva- 
tories ; the various Executive Buildings, with their 
imposing and symmetrical exteriors, and the many- 
objects of interest within ; its numerous statues, in 
marble and bronze, to departed greatness ; its beautiful 
parks, with fountains and flowers ; its majestic avenues 
and streets ; its galleries of art ; its public libraries and 
institutions of science ; its palatial private residences ; and 
indeed, everything necessary to the capital city of a 
mighty nation, and calculated to attract the senses and 
elevate and enlighten the mind. 

To those who desire a complete historical and descrip- 
tive account of the city and its surroundings, see 
KEIM'S HA^TDBOOK OF WASHI:N^GT0X A]^D 
ITS E:N'yiROiSrS, a work compiled with great care 
and profusely illustrated, and designed not only as a 
guide to the city, for immediate use, but an entertaining 
work for home reading, and worthy of a conspicuous 
place in the library for future reference. 

THE POTOMAC RIVER. 

The Potomac River, which forms nearly the entire 
boundary between West Virginia and Virginia on the 
south, and Maryland on the north, has its fountailT" 
sources in two branches, tlie Northern rising on the east- 
ern slopes of the Allegheny mountains, near the sources 
of the Cheat and Youghiogheny branches of the Monon- 
gahela, in the northern part of West Virginia ; and the 
Southern in the Shenandoah range about the centre of 
the same state. The North Branch runs northeast from 
its source, forming the boundalf^ between Allegheny 
county, Maryland, and Grant and Mineral counties, 
West Virginia, and has a course of one hundred and ten 
miles. The South Branch, one hundred and forty miles 
long, drains Pendleton county. West Virginia, and tak- 
ing a northeasterly course, traverses the counties of 
Hardy and Hampshire. These two branches unite in 
Hampshire county, Maryland, about fifteen miles south- 
east of Cumberland, in that state. As far as Haxcock, 
a station and post village on the Baltimore and Ohio 
railroad, it takes a somewhat irregular course towards 
the northeast, and thence swings off to the southeast as 



THE POTOMAC RIVER. 



11 



far as historic Harper's Ferry. Here the noble stream 
rolls in majestic grandeur through a wild gorge in the 
Blue Ridge range. The towering and precipitous walls, 
giddy mountain altitudes, and the rushing waters, con- 
stitute a landscape for sublimity and bold effects unex- 
celled on the Atlantic slope. 




IHE PRESIDENT'S HOUSE. 



At Harper's Ferry, the river intersects the boundary 
between West Virginia and Virginia. Just east of the 
Bhie Ridge, the picturesque Shenandoah, its principal 
tributary, falls into the Potomac. Thence to its mouth, 
the river divides Virginia and Marylaiid, taking a south- 
easterly direction. The fine scenery continues, some- 
times bold and mountainous, and then again open and 
picturesque, receiving on the way the contributions of 
its principal affluents — the Kacapon, the Monocacy, and 
the Conecocheague rivers. The river thence sweeps by 
Cumberland, an important industrial and business 
centre in the heart of a rich mining and agricultural 
district, and has all the characteristics of a mountain 
stream. There is a difference of twelve hundred feet 
between Westport and Washington. The descents in 



12 THE rOTOMAC RIVER. 

some places form picturesque cascades, the principal of 
which are the Shenandoah, Seneca, Great and Little 
Falls. Released from the mountains, and passing 
through the narrow channel between Georgetown and 
Analostan Island, the river spreads out into a broad and 
magnificent estuary, beginning in front of Washington, 
and extending with a southwesterly trend seventy miles, 
and thence southeasterly to the Chesapeake Bay, and 
from two to seven miles wide. From its mountain 
springs to its mouth in the Chesapeake Bay, latitude 38^ 
north, the distance is four hundred miles, and as far as 
Washington the river is navigable for vessels drawing 
twenty-two feet of water. 



EXCXTRSIOI^ I. 



From Washington to the Great Falls of 
the Potomac. 



DISTA]SrCES. 



From Georgetown to the 



Miles. 

Feeder Lock 4 

Lock No. 2 41^ 

Magazine Lock 5^ 

Seven Locks (Lower) , . . .7% 



Seven Locks (Upper) 
Six Locks (Lower) . . . 
" " (Upper) Great 



Miles. 

. 123/ 



Falls 14 



Hotel. — At the L^pper Lock of the Falls of the Potomac, accommodations 
substantial, a good meal or lunch, may be had by those not provided with 
their own, at a reasonable price. Fishing tackle can be purchased at the store 
in the Hotel. 

In the summer season a small steam pleasure boat 
makes frequent trips to the Great Falls of the Potomac. 




GEORGETOWN AND AQUEDUCT OF THE ALEXANDRIA CANAL. 

The steamer usually starts from its moorings on the 
canal between Congress and High streets, and may be 
conveniently reached by the Pennsylvania avenue horse 
cars, alighting at Congress street, and going south but a 
short distance. Usual fare for the round trip, 75 cents. 

( '3) 



14 EXCURSIOIT TO THE 

The days of departure of the "boat are announced in the 
newspapers. Some seasons the steamer has made regular 
trips on Sundays, starting between 8 and 9 a. m., and 
returning by 6 p. m. Excursionists frequently make the 
trip to the Great Falls on one of the numerous canal 
boats leaving Georgetown for Cumberland during the 
week, and sometimes remain at the Falls from Satur- 
day till Monday. Permission can be obtained from the 
boatmen. Owing to the locks, sixteen in number, to be 
passed going and returning, the trip requires from three 
to four hours each way. 

To those desirous of enjoymg a day of release from the 
restraints of life in the Executive Departments, or from 
everyday affairs, an excursion to the Great Falls affords 
everything that could be desired in the way of beauty of 
scenery ; in the proper season, fine fishing ; or in experienc- 
ing the novelty of canal navigation and locking over the 
elevations above the level line. 

Leaving its moorings, the little steamer passes under a 
massive arched bridge, part of the original work of the 
canal. 

On the east wall are inscriptions — north of the arch, "Andrew Jackson, 
President of the United States," "Charles V. Mercer, President of the Ches- 
apeake and Ohio Canal," and names of the first directors ; " Built 1S34," on 
the keystone, " O. H. Dibble, Builder ; " and on the south side of the arch, 
""Thomas F. Purcell, Superintending Engineer," and the names of his assist- 
ants. Over the keystone on the west side of the bridge are inscriptions, 
"John Cox, Mayor of Georgetown," "James Dunlop, Recorder." 

As the boat proceeds, it passes by the immense coal 
chutes, from which the coal from the Cumberland mines 
is taken out of the canal boats, and transferred to the 
large three and four-masted schooners, in which it is car- 
ried to all parts of the Atlantic coast. A short distance 
beyond is the northern entrance to the aqueduct of the 
Alexandria Canal, incorporated 1830, where it crosses 
the Potomac. The aqueduct is 1,400 feet long, 40 feet 
wide, and 36 feet above high water. The stone piers are 
embedded 17 feet in the l3ed of the river, to resist the 
weight of ice from the river above. (See page 13.) 

To this point, the Georgetown Channel of the Potomac, 
±rom forty to sixty feet deep, and Analostan or Mason''s 
Island, seventy acres, once the residence of Gen. John 
Mason, Commissary General of Prisoners in the war of 
1812, and the birthplace of J. M. Mason, Confederate 
Commissioner to Europe, may be seen on the left, with 



GREAT FALLS OF THE POTOMAC. 15 

the houses of G-eorgetown rising precipitously on the 
right. 

Passing the aqueduct, tlie canal skirts the banks of 
the river. The forest-clad cliffs opposite are in Virginia, 
and it was at the foot of these that John Randolph, of 
Roanoke, and Henry Clay, fought their celebrated duel. 
The massive stone and brick buildings, with their lofty 
bell-towers, crowning the picturesque summit on the 
right, are the Georgetown University, under the care of 
the Fathers of the Society of Jesus, founded in 1789, 
raised to a university in 1815, and the oldest Roman 
Catholic college in the country. As the boat steams 
along, at a distance of one and a half miles, the embank- 
ment of the Distributing Beservoir of the Washington 
aqueduct may be seen on the crest of the ridge on the 
right. From this point the immense iron mains^ wliich 
convey the supply of water into Washington, begin. 
Here also ends the nine-foot cylindrical conduit which 
carries the water from the Great Falls into the receiving 
and distributing reservoirs. A short distance beyond, the 
Receiving Beservoir appears in sight on the hill on the 
right. 

After pursuing a level of four miles from Georgetown, 
we arrive at the 

Feeder Lock. — Before reaching, but near this lock, is 
the site of the celebrated chain bridge, now replaced by a 
modern structure. On the right, commSmding the bridge, 
stood Battery Martin Scott, one of the defences of 
Washington in 1861-65. In the earliest days, this was 
the only crossing of the Potomac in this vicinity, except 
the ferry at Georgetown, between Maryland and Yir- 
ginia. In 1811, a chain suspension bridge was erected 
over the stream, but was carried away in a freshet and 
ice-gorge. The present iron bridge (a Howe truss) was 
built in 1870. It is 1,350 feet long. At this point may 
also be seen the rocky channel of the Little Falls of the 
Potomac* The waters of the river, which have been 
sweeping along with majestic and swelling flood to- 
wards the broad estuary below, here rush and roar 
amidst boulders of rugged form and immense size. The 
scenery is romantic beyond description, and will inspire 
the admiration of every lover of nature. From the 
tranquil current above to the quiet flood below the dis- 
tance is one and a half miles, and the fall thirty-seven 
feet. 



16 



EXCURSIOK TO THE 



After making tlie rise of the Feeder Lock, and foUowl 
ing a one-fourth-mile level, 

Lock No. 2 is reached. 

At the end of the next level, one and a half miles, 

Magazine Lock is reached, so named after an old gov- 
ernment magazine which stood here at the thne. i^ear 
here the valley of 
Cabin John Creek 
yAII be seen. 
Across this deep, 
narrow, and rug- 
ged fissure in the 
hills, and within 
sight of the canal, 
springs the fa- 
mous Cabin John 
Bridge, which 
carries the Wash- 
mgton aqueduct 
over the valley. 
This bridge has 
the largest smgle 
span arch of 
masoin:y in the 
world, being 220 
feet spring, 57^ 
feet from the cabin john bridge. 

springing line, 101 feet above the creek, and constructed 
of granite and Seneca stone. It is 420 feet long, and 
cost $237, 000. The Grosvenor Bridge over the river Dee 
at Chester, England, is 200 feet span. 

The steamer, after traversing another level of one and 
a half miles, reaches the 

Seven Locks. — Here will be afforded an opportunity to 
get off and take a stroll along the tow-path, and, at the 
same time, to watch the process of locking to a higher 
summit. These seven locks are within a distance of 
about one and a half miles, and the total rise is 56 feet. 
The locks are constructed of solid masonry, 100 feet long, 
15 feet wide, and 8 feet lift. 

Leaving the Seven Locks, the canal makes another 
level of four miles, when the 

Six Locks are reached. These are the same size as the 
seven locks. The scenery by tbis time is rugged and 




CtKEAT falls of TJIE P<>T()MA( 



17 



wild. The gently uiiduLiting" outlying uiountiiin-spnrrfy 
with cultivated tields on the Maryland side, have ended,, 
and forests pf evergreen and deciduous trees have taken 
their places. 

At the last of the Six Locks is the Hotel, and the 
terminus of the trip. The passengers here disembark,, 
and dispose themselves for recreation as their inclinations 
prompt. The boat will lie here for four or five hours. It 
is customary for excursionists to cross the canal and 
stroll over to the falls, and ramble there under the shade 
of rugged oaks, birch and jessamine, or among the rocks 
which lie around in wild grandeur. The Potomac at 
this point narrows to one hundred yards in width, and 




■HE GREAT FALLS OF THE POTOMAC. 



makes a descent of eighty feet, in a series of cataracts 
and falls, in a distance of one and a half miles. The 
greatest single leap is forty feet. The river here divides 
into two channels^ the Maryland and Virginia, separated 
by Comi's and Great Falls islands. Across the Maryland 
channel a sitpplii dam of solid masonry, with gate-houses 
and gates^ has been thrown, which will be extended to the 
Virginia side if necessary to increase the water supply of 
the Capital. At this point also the water of the river is 
tm'ued into the nine-foot conduit, which begins here. 



18 THE FALLS OF THE POTOMAC. 

The Grovernment owns five acres at the falls to control 
the water-right. The capacity of the aqueduct, a nine- 
foot conduit, is eighty million gallons in twenty-four hours. 

Tlie scenery here is weird and wild. The immense 
rocks lying about in immense masses present a scene of 
the wildest confusion. Forest trees, and a dense under- 
.grow^th of wild shrubbery, grow upon the shores, and in 
the summer time adorn the stern face of nature with 
luxuriant foliage. 

The Falls are also a popular resort for fishermen in the 
spring and fall, when the black bass resort there in great 
numbers, and the captivating angler's sport presents in- 
^creased temptations. 

The "Potoinac was early an object of hnprovement. George Washington 
conceived the idea of connecting the waters of the Potomac and the Ohio by 
a system of canals and slack-water navigation. He made several reconnois- 
sances of the river, and a survey and soundings of the stream from George- 
town to beyond the Great Falls. This scheme was engaging his attention 
when he was called to the command of the armies of the Revolution, 1776-83, 
and after the close of the war he again enlisted himself in the prosecution of 
this work. 

The Potomac Company, chartered by the State of Maryland in 1784, com- 
pleted a canal before iSoo, around the Little and Great Falls. These efforts 
were followed by the charters by Congress, and the States of Maryland, Penn- 
sylvania, and Virginia, of the present enterprise. Work was commenced in 
1828. The object was the connection of tide-water on the Potomac with the 
Head of navigation on the Ohio, a distance of 360 miles. In 1841 the canal 
was opened to Cumberland, 182 miles, at a cost of ^13,000,000, of which Mary- 
land subscribed $5,000,000, the United States ;gi,ooo,ooo, Washington j5i,ooo,- 
000, and Georgetown, Alexandria, and Virginia, each ^250,000. Cumberland 
remains the terminus. The execution of the enterprise was a work of great 
difficulty. There are 75 locks of 100 feet in length, 15 feet in width, and aver- 
aging 8 feet lift, 11 aqueducts crossing the Monocacy river, consisting of 7 
arches of 54 feet span; also 190 culverts of various dimensions, some suffici- 
ently spacious to admit of the passage of wagons. The canal is fed by a num- 
ber of dams across the Potomac, varying from 500 to 800 feet in length, and 
from 4 to 20 feet elevation. The breadth of the canal is 60 feet for the first 60 
miles above Georgetown, and for the remaining distance to Cumberland 50 
feet, with a uniform depth of 6 feet. The entire lift is about 600 feet. The 
aqueducts, locks, and culverts, are constructed of stone, laid in hydraulic ce- 
ment. The tuntiel through the " Pawpaw Ridge" is 3,118 feet in length, and 
24 feet in diameter, with an elevation of (7 feet clear of the surf ice of the 
water. The canal connects with Rock creek. The canal to Cumberland 
opens the immensely valuable and rich coal sections of western Maryland and 
West Virginia The unfinished portion of the canal, from Cumberland to 
Pittsburgh, is 178 miles. 

The hour for the return of the boat having arrived, 
ample warning is given by blowing the whistle. All 
being again aboard, the boat starts on her homeward 
voyage, reversing the order of things, and dropping down 
the step-like locks until the long level leading back into 
Georgetown is reached. 



EXCXTRSIOIT II, 



THE POTOMAC RIVER, 

From the City of Washington to its Mouth. 

Distance from Washhstoton 
To Mouth of Potomac Eiver (Pt. Look- 
out) 106 Miles. 

To Baltimore 190 " 

To Old Pt. Comfort (Fortress Monroe) 183 " 
To ^N^ORFOLK 194 " 

table of distances to points 

On the Potomac Eiver, compiled by the United States 

Coast and G-eodetic Survey. 

From Washington to 

Miles. 

Alexandria 5 

Rosier's Bluff 8 

Broad Creek ..*.... 9 

Fort Washington 12 

Mount Vernon 14 

Marshall Point 15 

White House 165^ 

Hollowing Point . . . • .20 

Craney Island 21 

Glj'mont .... ... 22 

Indian Head 23^ 

Mattawoman Creek .... 27^ 

Cockpit Point 29 

Quantico Creek 31 

Sandy Point 34 

Liverpool Point 36 

Smith's Point 39 

Aquia Creek 39^ 

At the foot of Seventh street west, reached by the 
Seventh or Ninth Street Horse Bailways, going south ; or 
at Georgetoicn^ conveniently reached by the Pennsylvania 
Avenue or F Street Horse Bailways^ going west, the trav- 
eler takes one of the many palatial steamers plying to 
points on the Potomac River and the Chesapeake Bay, 
preparatory to a voyage not only replete with interest and 
information, but unrivaled in everything which contri- 
butes to his safety and comfort. 

(19) 



Miles. 

Maryland Point 45 

Nanjemoy Creek 52 

Upper Cedar Point Light . . 53 

Mathias Point 55 

Persimmon Point 59 

Lower Cedar Point Light . . 61% 

Rosier's Creek 64 

Monroe's Creek 68 

Pope's Creek 72 ■ 

Great Wicomico Bay .... 75 
Blackiston's Island Light . . 79 

Machadock River 85 

Ragged Point 87 

Piney Point 89 

St. Mary's River 99 

Point Lookout Light . . . to6 
Smith Point Lightships . . iio 



20 



TO THE MOUTH OF THE POTOMAC. 



Seated on the deck awaiting the departure of the 
steamer, which perhaps is already showing signs of life 
by the pulsations of the mighty machinery in the depths 
of the hold, the impatient hissing of steam, and the 
general stir on deck, may be seen the long line of toater 
front of Washington ; the lofty dome of the Cdpitol; and 
the bold outlines of the mighty public _ edifices^ mingling 
uith the mass of private structures, and the buildings of 




ARLINGTON. 



Georgetown nestling amid the distant hills on the right be- 
yond, and historic Arlington crowning the summit of the 
wooded elevation on the Virginia side of the river. 

Or, again, seated on the deck of the steamer at George- 
town, the port of entry of Washington, will be observed the 
sliiijping of the city, the immense chutes and wharves at 
which the bituminous coal from the fields of West Vir- 
ginia, brougfit down by canal, is being loaded on schoon- 



22 



EXCURSION TO THE 



ers for transportation to ports on the Atlantic seaboard ; 
and beyond, tln^ough the narrow portals of the hills, may 
be seen the waters of the Potomac coming down from 
the eastern declivities of the Appalachian chain, and 
aronnd a scene of picturesqne beauty, precipitous cliffs, 
wooded hills, and the water-fringed, romantic isle of 
Analostan. 

Starting at Georgetown, where the river channel is five 
hundred yards wide and forty to sixty feet deep, the fair- 
way of the stream runs close to the Virginia bank. The 
mass of buildings of the city with a few distinctive ob- 
jects may be seen. Between this channel and the Wash- 
ington shore is an expansive marsh of about 1,000 acres. 




THE UNITED STATES BARRACKS. 



one-third clear at low water. Passing the Draiv of the 
Long Bridge, where the stream is nearly one mile wide, 
the steamer heads for Giesboro Point. 

Or starting at Washington, and passing down along the 
river front of the city, the steamer first comes to the 
long wooded peninsula upon which is situated the 

United States Barracks, established in 1881, formerly 
the United States Arsenal, latitude 38° 51' 51" :N'., lon- 
gitude 77° 00' 43" West of Greenwich. 

The £-rote^nds are about twelve feet above high water. The pem'nsuia is 
formed by the Potomac river, and the Anacostia or Eastern Branch, and was 
first known as Greenleaf's Point. A 77iilitary station was established here in 



MOUTH OF THE POTOMAC. 



'SS 



1803 ; shops erected in 1807 ; powder stored here in 1812 ; was a regular depot 
of supplies 1813 ; was destroyed by the British 1814 ; rebuilt in 1815 ; and 
was a depot of ordnance supplies during the Rebellion, 1861-65. The 
total size of the Resei-vation, including the purchase of 1857, is sixty-nine 
acres. 'Y\\.e.xQ. ?lx& officers' quarters, barracks for men, guard-house, offices, 
storehouses, magazines, stables, hospitals, machine and blacksmith shops, 
laundries, etc., for five batteries. The bodies of Booth and uie other conspir- 
ators in the assassination of President Lincoln were first buried here, as also 
Wirz, the AndersonviMe prison-keeper. 

After runnino- close to the barracks grounds for three- 
fourths of a mile to Greenleaf\s Foint^ the steamer opens 
the 

Anacostia River, or Eastern Branch of the Potomac, 
as it is locally called. This stream runs in a north- 
easterly direction from the main river to historic Bla- 
denshurg, the scene of many famous duels, some six 




THE NAVY YARD. 



miles above. The Anacostia is three-fourths of ^a mile 
wide at its mouth, but has a very narrow channel, run- 
ning close under the Washington ba;nk. At the Anacos- 
tia bridge, one and one-half miles above Greenleafs 
Pomt, the Branch is only live hundred yards wide. As 
soon as we open the river, we see the United States Navy 
Yard— the two ship-houses forming conspicuous objects 
—and generally several war vessels lying in the stream. 
The navii-yard, established in 1804, is on the north bank 
of the Anacostia, one and one-fourth miles from Green- 



24 EXCURSioisr to the 

leafs Pointy and occupies an area of about twenty-seven 
acres. It is now used mainly as a construction-yard, and 
for experiments in ordnance and gunnery. The frigates 
Brandywine — forty-four guns, Minnesota, and other fa- 
mous war vessels,, were built here ; and it was from this 
place that the sloop of war Pensacola started on her 
memorable run down the river in 1862, when the banks 
below Washington were lined with Confederate batteries 
at every available point. (See page 21.) 

The little village opposite to the navy yard is Union- 
town — and the long dark red building on the hill with tur- 
rets which give it the appearance of a castle, is ^^ St. 
Mizaheth\'i^''\th.e United States Hospital for the Insane. 
The southern point of entrance to Anacostia river is 
called 

Giesboro' Point, and is easily recognized by the thick 
grove of trees on it, with a house peeping out from it, 
and a long wharf running out to the edge of the channel. 
At this point the Georgetown, Washington, and Anacos- 
tia channels unite and form the broad channel^ which ex- 
tends down the main stream. The length of the main 
channel from the Aqueduct at Georgetown to deep 
water off Giesboro' Point is four and two-thirds miles. 
The depth at mean high water, at the shoalest place below 
Washington, is twenty-two feet. 

The river channel now keeps the eastern shore, running 
about south-southwest to Alexandria. After clearng 
Giesboro' Point, on the crest of the first hill on the left 
stood Fort Carroll^ and the second Fort Grehle, two 
earth-works commanding the river, and forming part of 
the cordon of defences of Washington, 1861-65. The 
Naval Magazine^ with its wharf, is also on the east bank, 
one and thre-e-fourths miles below Giesboro' Point. The 
long wharf of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Cortipany 
is directly opposite to the northern end of Alexandria. 
The wide, shallow creek, also opposite the city, is called 
Oxon Creek. 

Alexandria, originally called Belhaven^ is the seat of 
justice of the county of the same name in Ykginia, and 
is a port of entry. It presents a commanding appearance 
frora the river. 



MOUTH OF THE POTOMAC. 25 

It early enjoyed a considerable commercial importance, carrying on trade 
with ports of the East and West Indies, and on our own coast. It is the em- 
porium of the important fish trade of the Potomac. At one time it was the 
rival of Baltimore commercially. The river here is one mile wide, and thirty- 
four to liftj'-four feet deep, affording commodious anchorage for vessels of the 
greatest draught. From here Braddock set out on his toilsome march to the 
fatal forests on the Monongahela. During the Revolution, 1776-83, it was re- 
garded as a place of great strategic importance. The British General Gage in 
1776 contemplated an overland attack from Pittsburgh, while the fleet of the 
Earl of Dunmore was to attack it from the river, and thus cut off communica- 
tions between the northern and southern armies of tlie revolutionary colonies. 
The plan, however, was never carried out. During the War of 1812 (Aug. 2.7, 
1814), after Fort Washington had been abandoned and blown up, the British 
fleet moved up to Alexandria, which was saved from pillage and flames by the 
exertions of several prominent citizens, notably Edward Lloyd, the half- 
brother of the Marquis of Beckwith. The latter was with the fleet at the 
time. The British commander, while his fleet lay at anchor off the city, 
seized 16,000 barrels of flour, 1,000 hogsheads of tobacco, 150 bales of 
cotton, 3 ships, 3 brigs, and a large quantity of wines and cigars. The city 
possesses much historic interest. It was the home of Lord Fair/ax, one of 
the ancient and noble English families settled in Virginia. His Lordship's 



ALEXANDRIA FROM BELO"Ar. 

mansion still (1881) stands in excellent preservation. The Christ Episcopal 
chu?-ch, commenced in 1765, and finished in 1773, of bricks imported from 
England, and still standing, was attended by General Washington when at his 
home at Mt. Vernon. Near the city is a national cemetery , in which lie the 
remains of 3,635 Union soldiers. 

The delightful location of the city and its convenience of access from Wash- 
ington, which lies in sight, has made it the place of residetice of many busi- 
ness men and officials from the latter. Four railroads centre here ; six regu- 
lar lines of steamers touch here ; and a canal connects with the Chesapeake 
and Ohio Canal at Georgetown. There are also some manufactures. The 
population in 1870 was 13,570, and 1880, 13,658. 

The long, low, green point at the south end of Alex- 
andria, with the light-house on it, is 

Jones Point — It was to this point, April 15, 1791, that 
the municipal authorities of Alexandria, Ya. , and com- 
missioners of the proposed federal city, in accordance 
with the proclamation of President Washington, March 
30, 1791, announcing the bounds of the new Federal 



26 EXCURSION TO THE 

Territory, provided for by national legislation under au- 
thority of the Constitiition, proceeded and planted, ac- 
cording to the solemn rites of Masonry, the initial or cor- 
ner-stone of the Federal Territory afterwards named the 
District of Columbia. The present light-house stands 
upon the site of these interesting ceremonies. In the be- 
ginning of the century it was proposed to erect a ' ' great 
fort " on this point, to be called Columbia^ in commemo- 
ration of this event. 

The wide stream south is Hunting Greek. 

The steep, wooded hill about one and one-fourth 
miles below Jones Point, and opposite, is Bozier''s Bluffy 
ow which stands 






FORT FOOTE. 



Fort Foote, Md., lat. 38° 46" X., long. TP V 25" West 
of Greenwich, named after Rear Admiral Andrew Hull 
Foote, U. S. Xavy, the hero of the naval operations at 
Forts Henry, Donelson and Island jSTo. 10, and com- 
mander of the South Atlantic Blockading Srpiadron. 

T\\&J~ort is about ninety feet above high water, on the left bank of the Poto- 
mac River, about eight miles below Washington. It was established in 1862, 
as one of the river defences of the Capital. The government took possession 
of the ground May 10, 1862. The southern part of the Reservation, contain- 
ing 15 acres, i rood, j^^i perches, was purchased from F W. Rosier; the 
northern part, adjoining and containing 51 acre.-;, i rood, 12^ perches, from 
the heirs of Benedict Edelin. yurisdiction over the land was cedefl to the 
government by an act of the General Assembly of Maryland, approved April 
I, 1872. l^\\.ft fortification is constructed of earth, and is held from the 
United States Barracks, Washington. It is in charge of a non-commissioned 
officer. In case of emergency the ^firr/^-^^ could be increased to five com- 
panies of artillery. The water supply is ample. 

About one and a half miles below Bozier\s Bluff\ and 
on the same bank, is Broad Greek., very shallow, but five- 
eighths of a mile wide at its mouth. The extent of marsli 



MOUTH OF THE POTOMAC. 27 

land opposite to Kozier's is known as the Hell Hole. The 
post hamlet of Collingwood, in Fairfax county, Virginia, 
is opposite and below Fort Foote. From Rozier's the 
gray walls of 

Fort Washington, a stone casemated work, can be 
seen perched upon the bluff. It is two miles below 
Broad Creek, about four miles below Fort Foote, nearly 
six miles below Alexandria, and twelve below Washing- 
ton. There is a light-house of open wood work on the 
end of the point. 

Fort "Washington, Maryland, lat. 30° 42' 37" N., long. 77° 48" W., is 

•situated on a bluff", about one hundred and twenty feet above high water, on 
he eastern bank of the Potomac River, where Piscataway creek, five-eighths- 
if a mile wide and south of the fort, empties into it. It was established in 
iSoS, as a river defence in the approach to Washington — the Government 
hen buying about four acres. ^Y\).^ present ivork was built in 1815, five acres 



FORT WASHINGTON. 

more land being then purchased. PiXioXh.Gx purchase of 34 acres was made ir* 
1833, and in 1875 a farm of 289 acres was added. The total area of the Res 
ervation is 333 acres, 3 roods, 11 perches, jurisdiction over the land wa 
ceded to the tjnited States by an act of the General Assembly of Maryland 
approved April 11, 1874. The supply of water is good. The banks of th 
ravines are all well wooded. The trees east of the fort have grown up since 
1865. The fort was buiit into the hill, with thre-e tiers of casemates facing the 
river, and bringing the upper tier on a level with the top of the hill. A new 
ivater battery for guns of heavy calibre has been commenced. There are ac- 
commodations at the fort for a garrison of five batteries of artillery, with offi- 
cers' quarters, kitchens, hospitals, magazines, etc. 

While Ross, the British general, was moving upon Washington by land, a 
'Qrxtisnjleet of two frigates, 36 and 38 guns ; two rocket ships, 18 guns each ; 
two bomb vessels, 8 guns each, and one schooner, under Commodore Gordon, 
moved up the Potomac. Fort Washington alone stood between the British 
and Alexandria and the Capital. Despite the efforts of the citizens of Alex- 
andria, Washington, and Georgetown, nothing was done to strengthen their 
means of defence. Some fifty thousand dollars, loaned the government by the 
banks of Alexandria for the purpose of defence, was diverted to other uses. 
The garrison of Fort Washington consisted of but eighty men, under Captain 
Samuel T. Dyson, who had orders to be vigilant, and if threatened by land to 



28 



EXCURSION TO THE 



blow up the work and retreat across the river. On August 27, after the cap- 
ture of Washington, the British squadron appeared, whereupon Dj^son, in- 
stead of defending it from the water front, as was intended, blew up the work 
and fled without firing a gun. As a consequence, the enemy's squadron con- 
tinued its cruise, and anchored off" Alexandria the next day. 

Eort Washington is Jield from the United States Bar- 
racks at Washington, and is in the charge of a non-com- 
missioned otiicer. It is an extremely interesting loork^ 
and is well worthy of a visit, especially to one not famil- 
iar with warlike defences, as it gives a very good idea of 
a sea-coast fort. 

The wooded point on the western hank opposite Fort 
Washington is SheridanPs Point. Here the river makes 
its first bend — turning about west-southwest, and keep- 
ing that direction for about four miles to Ferry Pointy on 
the western side of Mt. Vernon. 




MOUNT VF.RNOiX FROM THE RIVER. 

Mt. Vernon, the home of Washington, lies on the 
iiorth bank of the river, between Little Hunting Greek on 
the east, and Doag Creek on the west. The house is 
about one and three-fourths miles below Sheridan's 
Point, and is beautifully situated on the summit ot a very 
steep bluff, diversified with grosses of trees and grassy 



MOUTH OF THE POTOMAC. 



29 



slopes. A wharf at the base of the bluff is the liinding- 
place of the steamer which carires excursionists to and 
from the place. The dioelUng-house is seen through the 
trees as you come abreast of Sheridan's Point. At Sher- 
idan's the river is five-eighths of a mile wide, and at Mt. 
Yernon nearly one and one-fourth miles wide. The 
wharf at Mt. Vernon is exactly fourteen miles Ijelow 
Washmgton. Mt. Vernon on the Potomac, a post hamlet, 
is near the landing. 










L 



MOUNT VERNON FKOM THE ALEXANDRIA ROAD. 

The mansion, two stories high, ninety-six feet long, and surmounted by a 
cupola, is of wood, cut in imitation of stone. The centre was erected hy 
Lawrence Washington, the General's brother, and the wings by the General 
himself. The name is after Admiral Vernon, in whose fleet Lawrence Wash- 
ington, the original proprietor, served in colonial times. The veranda in the 
rear commands a fine view of the Potomac. The vault containing the re- 
mains of Washington is on the path leading from the landing to the mansion. 
The koine and grave of Washington, after the demise of Judge Bushrod 
Washington in 1832, fell into decay. In 1856 the Ladies' Mount Vernon As- 
sociation of tJie United States purchased the mansion and contiguous grounds, 
and have since restored them as nearly as possible to the condition in which 
their great occupant left them, and have added ni.my articles of interest con- 
nected with his own life, or associated with the times in which he lived. 

Doag Creek is one mile wide at its mouth, but quite 
shallow. It is said that Washington used to go duelling 
here, and that he made zi careful detailed survey of it 



30 EXCURSION TO THE 

and sounded it out. Its eastern point of entrance is 
called Ferri/ Pointy and directl}^ opposite to it is Marshall 
Point, on the eastern bank of the Potomac, the site of 

Marshall Hall, SH^^est-^-iltege -<>f--$'-a4*fa3e-t)^mi^^^ * 

and a noted summer-resort, ^v The pavilion and buildings" 
are plainly seen as the steamei: passes. This part of the 
bank is cleared, cultivated, level country. There are 
also groves of ornamental trees surrounding the grounds. 

At Marshall Hall the river begins a gradual turn to the 
southward, running hrst about south Avest by south for 
about one and a half miles to abreast of White stone 
Point, and then south for three miles to abreast of Hal- 
loiving Point. Whitestone Point is on the west bank, two 
and a quarter miles below Ferry Point. It is a high, 
steep, wooded bluff, with yellow and white i)recipitous 
faces, having patches of scrub on them. A little over 
half a mile a))ove it, and about two and five-eighths 
miles below Mt. Yernon wharf, is a long, low, white 
house, standing on the flat ground at the base of a pre- 
cipitous, wooded hill. This is the 

White House, in Fairfax county, Ya., once a famous 
summer-resoit. 

After the surrender of Alexandria, efforts were made by the Government to 
caphcre or destroy the British fleet in its descent of. the Potomac. As the 
Maryland and District militia could not be rallied in time, Commodore Rod- 
gers, who was ordered from Philadelphia to Washington to assist in the de- 
fense of the city, but too late to be of service, having had but time to reach 
Baltimore when Washington fell, was directed to hasten to the Potomac with 
all the available men he could gather. His force amounted to about 400 sea- 
men, 50 marines, and four twelve-pounders. This force was commanded by 
Rodgers, Perry, Porter, and Creighton. Batteries were thrown up on the 
bank of the river at the "White Hozise" and at Indian Head, where the 
river narrows, both on the Virginia side. Riflemen were stationed along the 
wooded banks between these points. Volunteers from Washington also 
planted batteries on the bank. By September i, the British found themselves 
cut off. The forces on shore grew stronger every daj' by fresh accessions of 
guns from Washington and militia from the surrounding country. For several 
days there were at intervals some brisk engagements between the Americans on 
shore and the British on the river. 

Finally, matters growing serious, the British opened a concentrated fire of 
ten vessels, some one hundred and seventy-three guns, upon Porter's battery 
at the White House, and hurled such a fire of shot upon it as to silence it. 
This disposed of Perry's battery at Indian Head was in turn attacked. The 
guns commanded by Lieutenant George C. Read did effective service, but the 
superior numbers and weight of metal of the enemy sdenced them also. The 
British with their plunder thence proceeded unobstructed to the Chesapeake. 

On the south side of Whitestone Point is Gunston Cove, 
three-fourths of a mile wide, but shallow. It runs to the 
northwestward for a mile and a quarter, where it re- 
ceives the waters of two shallow creeks, Accotink and 



MOUTH OF THE POTOMAC. 31 

Foh\iick. On the south bank is Gunston Post-office, in 
Fairfax county, Ya. 

On Poh|ick or Poheek creek, seven miles south of Mount Vernon, in a for- 
■est of oak, chestnut, and pines, stands an ancient, crumbling church edifice, 
built of stone, with a hip roof, and of considerable size. Here George Wasn- 
ington was a parishioner, and frequently attended divine service, its rector at 
that time being Rev. Mason L. Weems, Washington's first biographer. The 
pulpit was a superior piece of workmanship. The Poheick Protestant Epis- 
copal church, named after the river so named by the Indians, was in Truro 
parish. In 1764 the old church had fallen into decay. There was much dis- 
cussion as between the old and a new-site. Washington favored the new site on 
the Poheick. Most of the parishioners favored the old, but Washington at the 
meeting presenting a map showing the convenience of the new location, it was 
accepted, and in 1765 the new church was built. W'ashington was a vestry- 
man in Truro and Fairfax parishes, at Poheick and Alexandria. The Masons 
and Fairfaxes also worshiped here. 



INDIAN HEAD. 



At Wliitestone Point the river is a mile wide, but at 
Gunston'' s Cove it spreads out to one and tliree-quarters 
miles, but soon contracts again to one and one-eighth at 
Hallowing Point. The two points which markthe^lowerLy^^*** 
end of this southerly reach are lZoZZ^s'<Pomt oiTthe east 
bank, and Hallowing Point on the west. The former is 
low% flat, and marshy ; the latter abrupt, precipitous, and 
thickly-wooded. On the south side of Hollis' Point 
makes in Pamwikey Greek., small, narrow, and shallow. 
Here the river again turns, this time nearly west south- 
west for nearly three and three-fourth miles to High 
Point, the eastern point of entrance to Occoquan Creek. 
The river wddens to over two miles in the middle of this 
reach, and then gradually contracts again, being only 
one and a quarter miles at 

Indian Head. — This remarkable headland is visible as 



32 EXCURSION TO THE 



soon as you open the reach, and appears on the left bank 
as a high, densely-wooded blnlf with perpendicular faces, 
showing- here and there the yellow sand. (See White 
House for engagement here in 1814.) High Point, on the 
opposite bank, is a high, steep bluff, with sandy faces, 
and its top crowned with a dense growth of trees. In 
the middle of the reach, about three-fourths of a mile 
from Hallowing Point, will be seen Graney Island., a very 
small, low, tiat islet. The channel passes on its eastern 
side, and you cannot go close to it on account of the flats 
surrounding it. The left bank, from the Pamunkey to 
Chapman'' s Point (opposite to Craney Island), presents a 
beautiful appearance in summer, the country being 
nearly all cleared and cultivated, and of an undulating 
or slightly rolling character, the swales gradually getting 
higher as they are more distant from the bank. What 
houses are seen stand at the bases of the high grounds. 
Just below Chapman'' s Point, perpendicular blujfs begin, 
and extend to Indian Head. These cliffs are quite high, 
and their sides are in some places clothed with trees, and 
in other places show bare, yellow, sandy faces, descending 
precipitously to the water. 

Glymont, a post village of Charles county, Maryland, 
about a mile below Chapman's Point, is a well-known 
watering-place, and is situated on a high perpendicular 
Avooded bluff, with cliff -like faces. There are two 
wharves here, and groups of white houses at the base of 
the cliffs. The large white house on top of the hill is 
very conspicuous. At Glymont you are exactly twenty- 
two miles below Washington. 

Opposite to Indian Ilead^ on the right or north baiil<; 
(^f the river, and a little over two miles below ILdlowittg 
Pointy is Sycamore Point, with cultivated, slightly undu- 
liiting country, diversified with groves of trees, and 
showing in places steep, sandy banks. 

Occoquan River is nearly two and a half miles wide at 
its mouth, while the river is only one and three-eighths 
miles, and the creek is therefore likely to be mistaken for 
the river by strangers in coming from below. The 
course, however, will determine — the river running east- 
northeast, and the creek due north. Though so wide, 
Occoquan is shoal, not more than six feet in the best 
channel being found beyond High Point. Its western 



^ 



MOUTH OF THE POTOMAC. 6d 

poiiit of entrance, called Freestone Pointy is quite^ 
easily recognized, being a high, steep bluff, wooded head,, 
cleared in some places, with perpendicular, cliff -like face.. 
A post hamlet of Fairfax county, Virginia, named- 
Freestone^ on the Alexandria and Fredericksburg rail- 
road, stands on the south side of the cove. At Freestone 
Pointy during the war, were Confederate batteries, and 
many brisk engagements took place between these and 
those at Cockpit Point below, and the Potomac flotilla, 
under the brave commander Ward, in one of which en- 
gagements he lost his life, ^c^^ c^c^t^^o- (U,*..^^^^ 

Occoauan, established by act of Assembly of Yirginla 
in 1804, is a post-village of Prince "William county, Va., 



THE rOSSUM NOSE (^SRE P. 35"). 

and a place of considerable local importance. The 
county was established in 1730. In 1835, Occoquan had 
a cotton manufactory running one thousand spindles, one 
of the first erected in the state. The town lies six miles 
above the mouth of the river. Woodbridge, a post-vil- 
lage lower down the Occoquan, is at the crossing of the 
Alexandria and Fredericksburg railroad. It has several 
churches, a bank, etc. Population, two hundred and 
twenty-eight. The Occoquan Biver here has a fall of 
seventy-two feet in one and a half miles, affording fine 
water power for several mills. The country in the 
vicinity is very picturesque. 

Lord Dunmore, the last of the royal governors of Virginia, driven from 
Gwyn's Island in July, 1776, his place of refuge, with a force of whites and ne- 
groes devastated the shores of the Potomac, carrying his revengeful expedi- 
tion as far as the destruction of the famous mills at Occoquan. It is said that 
his dastardly purpose was to destroy Mt. Vernon and to capture Lady Wash- 
ington. The sturdy sons of Prince William county, however, enraged at the 



34 EXCURSION TO THE 

outrages of this last vestige of royalty in the colony, armed and rallied for de- 
fence ; and after some brisk encounters on the river-shores in this vicinity, 
drove the fugitive governor to his ships and compelled him to fall back into 
the bay. 

The waters about the mouth of the Occoquan are the fa voritey^^aTzVz^ haunts 
■of the swan, it being the spawning ground of the white shad. This noble 
"bird also frequents the river for a distance of forty miles below. In early days 
•the swan resorted hither in flocks of several hundred, and might be seen float- 
ing gracefully on the waters, their white plumage at a distance resembling the 
driven snow, and in the evenings their sonorous notes could be heard for sev- 
eral miles. Their size was immense, sometimes measuring six feet from bill 
to toe, and eight feet from tip to tip. The swan remains in the river during 
the entire winter. 

The small creek making in on the north side of Fre^e- 
•stone Point is Nect^sim^ and that on its south side Pow- 
-elVs Creek. JS'either is of importance. Seen from below 
the bluff, Freestone Point is smaller and more abrupt 
than from above — the land being low until the base of 
the bluff is reached, when it rises with a nearly perpen- 
dicular slope to the summit. The river is here two 
miles and a half wide, with the channel close under the 
left bank. Beej) Point, on the easterner left bank, is di- 
rectly opposite Freestone Point, and nearly three and a 
half miles below Indian Head. It is a yellow sand bluff, 
wdth perpendicular faces, clothed with small trees and 
patches of scrub. On its south side makes in Matta- 
woman Creek, which although nearly a mile wide at its 
mouth, has a depth of not more than six feet at low 
tide, and is remarkable only as being a famous shad and 
herring fishery. 

Fisheries. — The fisheries of the Potomac constitute an important and re- 
munerative industrj% and give employment to a large fleet of vessels, and not 
less than ten thousand men. The Potomac shad fisheries rank with the 
largest in the United States, and during the spring months the voyager will 
see the immense nets, some a mile in length, stretching out into the river. 
They bring in large numbers of the finny delicacy at a haul. Planked shad 
or shad-bakes are among the notable attractions of numerous excursions from 
Washington to pomts below the White House. 

The herring fisheries also rank foremost in this branch of industry in the 
United States, and in quality this fish is rivalled only by the delicate herring 
of Nova Scotia. Immense quantities of this valuable fish of commerce arc 
cured on the river, and shipped to ports in the United States and the West 
Indies. 

Two miles below Occoquan formerly stood the ancient 
town of Colchester, prominent in colonial times, but of 
which no traces are now left. 

Stumpjc Point, on the southwestern side of Matta- 
woman creek, is one of the principal so-called '•'landings,''^ 
that is places for landing the huge nets, and has nothing 



MOUTH OF THE POTOMAC. 35 

to especially distinguish it, being of moderate height and 
fringed with low trees and scrub. It is directly opposite 
to Cockpit Foint^ on the right bank of the river. This 
point (Cockpit), famous during the blockade of the Po- 
tomac, is two and one-fourth miles below Freestone Point, 
and seen from the river appears like a high, round bluff ; 
but it is in reality low, level, and fringed with trees, 
while the bluff appearance is given by the 

Possum Nose, (See p. 33) a round, wooded head, about 
one-fourth of a mile below the point, and the site of the 
Confederate batteries which did so much damage during 
the Rebellion, 18(31-65. The river is -only a little over a 
mile wide between Stumpn and Cockpit Points. It was 
here that Capt. Ward was killed. A little over a mile 
below Stumpy Pointy on the left bank, is the entrance to 



QUANTICO. 

Ghicomuxen Creek, on the south side of which is the 
landing known as BucUVs Ferry. All of this shore is de- 
voted during the season to shad fishery. On the right 
bank opposite to the Ferry, and over two miles below 
Cockpit Point, is the mouth of 

Quantico Creek. — There are nine feet at low water in 
the creek, and the banks are partly cleared, and have 
several warehouses and dwellings on them. A deep cut, 
made by the wagon road leading over the bluff behind, is 
very noticeable, as is also the large whai-f just below 
Shipping Point, the southern point of the crew's mouth. 
Shipping Point is a little over thirty-one miles from 
Washington. 

Quantico (Potomac City) near the mouth of the Quan- 



36 EXCURSION TO THE 

tico Creek, a post village of Prince William county, Ya., 
is at the crossing of the Richmond^ Fredericksburg^ and 
Potomac Railroad, which here connects with the Alex- 
andria and Fredericksburg road. 

The course of the river from Indian Head to Shipping 
Point is very nearly southwest, but it now turns about 
south, and gradually widens until at Loiver Thorn'' s 
Point, directly opposite to Potomac Creek, and ten miles 
below Budd's Ferry, it is three miles wide. The deep 
channel runs close under the left bank all the way. 
There is nothing remarkable on either bank until you 
come to 

Aquia Creek, (See p. 37) nine miles below Quantico. 
This place, famous durmg the war as a great army depot, 
is now" almost deserted, but is easily recognized by the 
long railroad wdiarf, with warehouses and depot on its 
south bank. Its northern point of entrance is called 
BrenVs Point, and is also sufficiently remarkable, being a 
sandy point, with tall, ragged-looking and very conspicu- 
ous trees on it, and a tall, narrow-fronted dwelling-house 
near by. The south side of the creek, except w ere the 
railroad buildings are, is all marsh for half a mile back, 
when high, sandy, wooded hills begin. Aquia Creek, a 
post village of Stafford county, Ya. , is the terminus of a 
short branch of the Richmond and Potomac railroad, 
which connects with the Alexandria and Fredericksburg 
road, and is a little over forty miles from Washington. 

It was near here that the government purchased quarries in 1792, and took 
out the freestone from which the Executivi; Mansion and old portions of the 
Capitol were built. The stone was then shipped to Washington on flat-boats 
and schooners. A church built in 1750 is in the village, and frees tone, of excel- 
lent quality is still the chief article of export. The county of Stafford was 
created by act of Assembly, 1675. 

Nearly opposite Aquia Creek, on the left bank, is 
Smith's Point, covered with bushes and low scrub, and 
having a small wharf and warehouse at the base of tlie 
bluff. Xear by is Nanjemoy, a post-offce of Cliarles 
county, Maryland. Two and a quarter miles below 
Smith's is Lower Thom''s Point, a densely wooded bluff, 
with yellow\ sandy slopes ; and opposite to this on the 
riglit bank the mouth of Potomac Creek, which is a little 
over three miles below Aquia Creek. This entrance, 
which is three-fourths of a mile wide, is easily recognized 
by the densely wooded bluff on its south side, which 
shows two high, precipitous, sandy faces, when seen from 



MOUTH OF THE POTOMAC. 37 

up river ; while the point on the north side, called Marl- 
borough Pointy is low, with sandy faces fringed with 
trees, and has several houses on it. The entrance to the 
creek presents a beautiful appearance in summer, but it 
is shoal, havmg only six feet at low tide. The river is 
now making the gj-eat bend towards Maryland Pointy be- 
ginning to turn to the eastward at Thorn's Point on the 
left, and Marlborough Point on the right bank, running 
first southeast by south, and then gradually turning to 
east-southeast until Maryland Point is reached ; when it 
takes an east-northeast course to abreast of Matthias 
Point, nearly ten miles ^-^low. Thus between Quantico 
and Matthias Point, a ^^stance of about twenty-four 
miles, the river has describt,.^ an arc of nearly two-thirds 
of a circle. 



AQUIA CREEK (SEE P. 36J. 

Maryland Point, commonly, though erroneously, con- 
sidered the half-way ' point between Washington and 
Point Lookout, is on the north bank about two and one- 
half miles below Lower Thorn.'' s Pointy and between 
forty-four and forty-five miles from Washington. It is 
noticeable as extending out a long, low, flat arm into the 
river, dotted with low cedars, and having one bushy-look- 
ing cedar on its very end. A noteworthy feature on this 
side of the point is a group of houses standing in a thick 
clump of deciduous trees ; and a number of houses on 
the bank close to the water, kno\\^i as Biverside, /d post 
village of Charles county, Md. This is a famous fishing- 
station^ and there is also a station on the south bank 
nearly opposite this. The course of the river is now 
northeast by east, to abreast of Matomkin Pointy about 



38 EXCURSION TO THE 

three and a half miles, and then east by north-one-half- 
north to Matthias Point, about six miles. Matomkin 
Point, eight miles below Potomac Creek^ is low, and 
covered with bushy trees. On the end of the point is 
the steamboat landing, marked by a wharf and small 
warehouse. Here the south bank makes a long, gentle 
sweep to the southward, and then around by north- 
east to 

Matthias Point. (See p. 39). — In this bight is the 
small creek known as Jotank Creek, noticeable for 
the low, heavily-wooded cliffs of reddish sand near It. 
Directly opposite to it on the left bank the wide entrance 
opening to the northward is the mouth of Nanjemoy 
Creek, three-fourths of a mile wide, and five and a half 
miles below Maryland Point. It has eight feet at low 
tide in a narrow channel — and the shores in its vicinity 
are nearly all farming lands, cleared and cultivated, but 
diversified here and there with woods and groves of orna- 
mental trees. Exactly one mile below the mouth of the 
creek is 

Upper Cedar Point, easily recognizable by the tower of 
the now disused lighthouse, which will appear standing in 
the water about half a mile from the Point. A bell is 
rung in this tower m thick weather. The point at its ex- 
tremity is bluff, and covered with a dense growth of 
scrubby, black cedar, but the bank in its immediate 
vicinity, and in fact nearly as far as Windmill Point, at 
the entrance to Port Tobacco, is low and gently undulat- 
ing, showing in some parts sandy faces, and in others 
sloping gently to the water. It is all under cultivation. 
A noticeable feature in this part of the river is the high, 
perpendicular bluffs on the right bank between Jotank 
Creek and Matthias Point. They are of reddish and yel- 
lowish sand, with tufts of scrub clinging to their faces, 
and a few trees on the summits. Matthias Point, at 
which is a post hamlet of King George county, Ya., 
when seen will show as a steep, yellow bluif , dotted witli 
scrub, with a nearly level sunmiit, crowned with low 
trees. At its base will appear the usual wharf and ware- 
house which mark the regular steamboat landing ; but 
this is not at the point itself, but just this side of it. A 
quarter of a mile from the point, in a due north direc- 
tion we see the screw-pile lighthouse which marks the last 
great turn in the river, which now runs nearly straight 



MOUTH OF THE POTOMAC. 39 

in a southeasterly direction to the bay. We are now 
nearly tifty-five and three-fourths miles from Washington, 
and have opened the Loioer Cedar Point reach, extend- 
ing south by east, while to the northward, or on our left 
hand the river spreads away into a broad bay, into which 
empties a wide stream known as Port Tobacco Biver^ and 
which leads up to the settlement or village of 

Port Tobacco, a post village of Charles county, Md., 
five miles above its mouth, and two miles east of the 
Baltimore and Potomac railroad. It is the centre of a 
fine agricultural country, and its products, as the name 
implies, are to a great extent tobacco of a very fine qual- 
ity. Vessels can take only two feet at low tide up to the 
landing at Warehouse Point, so that only very small ves- 
sels can go up. This great estuary is all shoal — the 
river channel keeping close around Matthias Point. The 



MATTHIAS POINT (SEE P. 38). 

banks ahead, which are on the east side of the Loioer 
Cedar Point reach, appear as high, precipitous sand-bluffs 
fringed with trees, and with scrub clinging to the cliffs. 
The sand is of a whitish color, unlike the yellow and red 
sand below. 

Opposite to Mattldas Pointy on the left bank as we turn 
to go southward towards Lower Cedar Pointy we will see 

Pope's Creek Landing, a post village in Charles county, 
Md. , the mouth of the creek showing steep bluffs of red- 
dish sand, with patches of scrub clinging to them. As 
you pass the mouth of the creek, and can see into it, you 
find grassy land, with low, sandy cliffs, cut up by small 



40 EXCURSION TO THE 

ravines. The wharf at the landing marks the regular 
landing-place for the steamers, and there is usually a line 
of freight cars on the railroad track close to the bank. 
Pope's Creek is the terminus of that branch of the Balti- 
raore and Potomac railroad. 

Nearly opposite to, but a little below Pope's Creek, is 
Persimmon Pointy on the right bank, low and sandy, and 
has a group of black-looking cedars on its end. The 
large beacon in mid-river off this point, is on a dangerous 
shoal with only two feet of water. 

On the east bank, about two and a half miles below 
Pope's Creek is Ludlow'' s Ferry, and one and a half miles 
below this Lower Cedar Point, with a tall beacon off it in 
mid-river, and a screvj-pile lighthouse to the right of the 
beacon. The point shows sandy faces about twenty feet 
high, but extends off to a long, low, flat, white point, 
covered with scrub and bushes. Here is 

HoUister's, Westmoreland county. A large wharf 
and white warehouse extends into the river, and just 
back of the point a large while house stands in a grove of 
elms. This is the hotel, for this has become quite a sum- 
mer resort. It is all shoal between the beacon and the 
point — the channel passing between the beacon and the 
lighthouse. The former is nearly one mile from Cedar 
Point ; the lighthouse is on the eastern edge of the flats 
making off from the right bank, and is a little over a 
mile from shore. The channel between is quite deep, 
having from fifty to one hundred feet in it, 

A little over three and a half milas below Persimmon 
Point, on the west bank, opens Upper Machodoc Creek, 
half a mile wide, but of no especial interest ; and nearly 
three miles below this is King George'' s Point, low, flat, 
and cleared, having a couple of houses on it. It is the 
northern point of entrance to a small creek called Ho- 
sier's Creek. Its southern point is Bluff Point. On the 
left bank, four and a half miles from Lower Cedar Point 
is Swan Point, low and level, and having a large dwell- 
ling on it, surrounded by plantation huts. Between this 
point and Lower Cedar JPoint, there are two creeks — that 
to the northward called Piccowaxton, and that nearest to 
Swan Point, called Cuckold'' s Creek; neither of import- 
ance. 

The course of the reach below Cedar Point is nearly 
southeast, to abreast of Blakistone'' s Island, about seven- 



MOUTH OF THE POTOMAC. 



41 



teen miles below. This is one of the most interesting 
parts of the river, for on it are situated three of the most 
noteworthy features of the trip— Washington's Birth- 
place, the :Nomini Cliffs, and Blakistone's Is- 
land. Between Lower Cedar Point and the mouth of 
the Wicomico River, we cross the dangerous 

Kettle -bottom Shoals, so called from their round shape 
on the bottom. These consist of a great number of shoal 
spots, occupying the wdiole width of the channel, and ex- 
tending from Lower Cedar Point down the river for nearly 
twelve miles. The deep water channel which crosses 
them is marked by a line of buoys painted black and 
white, and placed from a mile to a mile and a half apart. 
We are not fairly past these shoals until we are due south 
from the mouth of the Wicomico. 




NOMINI CLIFFS (SEE P. 45,\ 

The mouth of this river is between six and seven miles 
below Swan Point, and opens between St. Catherine's 
Island on the east, and Coh Point on the west. Another 
small island, five-eighths of a mile northwest from St. 
Catharine's, is called St. Margarefs, and contracts the 
entrance to one and a half miles between banks. Wico- 
mico has a general northerly direction, for eight miles, 
through a beautifully cultivated and se+^^tled country. It 
then divides — the main stream going to the northwest- 
ward, and a smaller stream, called Chaptico, turning 
nearly west-northwest, but both are shoal above the di- 
vide. The main channel of the river, though narrow^ is 
deep — not less than four fathoms being found for five 
miles above its mouth. Beyond this it is full of shoals. 
The entrance is easily recognized when seen from the 



42 EXCURSION TO THE 

river, as it looks like an island, owing to a cleared space 
in the middle, which separates the woods into two groves. 
On the east bank, St. Catharine''s Island is low and flat, 
hut has a growth of scrubby cedars on its southwestern 
end, and one very conspicuous tree on its southt^^ n face. 
St. MargareVs is low, flat, entirely bare of trees except 
at its southeastern end, where there is a group of small 
houses, surrounded by orchards and ornamental trees. 

On the right bank of the Potomac the shore curves 
outward from Bluff Pointy past White Pointy and then 
turns to the southward to Gum Bar Pointy and thence to 
Paine- s Point, the western point of entrance to 
4^ Mattox Creek. This entrance is four and a half miles 
below Bluff Point, and the river is here five and three- 
fourths miles wide. The eastern point of entrance is 
Church Pointy the northwestern extremity of what was 
formerly the old Washington estate ; and now called 
Hayw^ood. The most remarkable feature here is the 
perpendicular sand-cliff which extends in an almost un- 
broken line to 

Pope's Oreek, two and three-fourths miles below, and is 
extremely level on top, and traversed about midway of its 
height by a stratum of a different color, running parallel 
to the line of the summit. There is so little beach at the 
base that at high water there is not room to land. In a 
little hollow just to the eastward of Church Point is seen 
a fine, large weeping willow, and to the eastward of this 
the chimneys and part of the roof of an ancient mansion 
appear over the bluff. This is Hanwood, once the home 
of Charles Washington, but now deserted and falling into 
ruin. It will well repay a visit, however. Five-eighths 
of a mile below Hat/wood, makes in a very small stream 
(impassable except for canoes), which is called 
/ Bridge Creek, and from which a road leads directly to 
• the site of tlie hou.'^e lohere George Washington loas born, 
February 22, 1732. This is about one and one-half miles 
back by the road ; and the ancient vaidt is passed on the 
right of the path, about five hundred yards from the 
bluff. The site, represented in 1881, only by the ridns 
of the brick chimney of the honored domicile, is on 
the west bank of Pope's Creek, about three-fourths of a 
mile above its mouth, and may be reached by boat 
through that creek, or by Mattox Creek to Wirtl'i Wharf, 
and thence by carriage or wagon to the hirthulace. The 



iOUTil OF THE POTOMAC. 



43 



dis 

OIK 

is 1 
bo? 
the : 



:j'f9 



m the mouth of the creek to Wirt's wharf is 
- Vourths miles, ami thence by the road it 
■ les. The landing at Bridge Creek and by 
•reek afford the best means of reaching 
fj trance to this creek is seventy-two and 






lii^s rrom Washington. 



Congress on June 17, 1879, having appropriated $3,000 for ^monument to 
mark the birthplace of George Washington, and having directed the becretary 
of State to carrv this patriotic purpose into effect, on November 1 ot the 
same year, Mr. Evarts, with a small party of invited guests, of which the 
writer was one, on the United States steamer Tallapoosa, visited this sacred 
spot At 1 p m. after a six hours' vovage, the steamer dropped anchor one 
and a half miles from Church Point. The water being shallow, the party 
landed in small boats. Secretary Evarts in command of the gig. General bher- 




WASHINGTON'S BIRTHPLACE IN l88l (SEE P. 44). 

man at the ham of the yawl, and Assistant Secretary Seward in charge of the 
whale boat. Owing to the surf, Dr. Wirt and John E. Wilson, in the carriages 
waiting on shore, drove into the water a distance of one hundred yards along- 
side of the ship's boats, and first taking the ladies, returned for the gentle- 
men, and landed all high and dry. Robert and Lloyd Washington welcomed 
the distinguished party as they landed, and all drove to the site of tl^e bnth- 
place, between Matto.x and Pope creeks. C C Perkins of Boston, an art 
connoisseur and author, one of the party; made sketches of the distinguishing 
objects of the place, consisting of an ancient brick chimney, a pile ot bricks 
a clump of fig trees and a juniper. Thence the party visited Wakefield, the 
esta e on which the birthplace is situated, then owned by John E. Wilson, and 



EXCURSION TO THE 

were received by his wife, Mrs. Bettie Wilson, and Mrs. Sallie Washington, 
her mother. This matronly dame, born 1799, was granddaughter of Augus- 
tine Washington, half-brother of George Washington, and widow of her 
cousin, Lawrence Washington. After partaking of lunch, the party visited the 
old family cemetery., which stood near the roadside on the way to the landing. 
The old vault had fallen in, and was overgrown with wild vines ; the cattle of 
the neignboring fields here sought the shade of the overhanging trees. After 
digging away tiie rubbish, two time-worn slabs were revealed, one bearing the 
name Mildred Washhigto7i, 1696, and the other yane Washington, died 
1729 : the latter was first wife to George Washington's father. Driving back 
to the shore in the dim light of the moon, the party in carriages were con- 
veyed through the rolling surf to the ship's boats. All safely aboard, after a 
hard puil against wind and tide and splashing waves, each one clambered up 
the side of the steamer, and the Tallapoosa was soon under way back to the 
city. 

Congress by joint resolution approved February 26, 1881, so amended 
and re-enacted joint resolution Jiuie 14, 1879, as to appropriate ;j53o,ooo 
to erect a monument at the birth-place of George Washington, and re- 
quired, before expending the sauae, that the Secretary of State should be satis- 
fied with the title to the land to be so occupied, and the securement of a pub- 
lic right of way thereto. Conditional deeds were given by former and later 
proprietors of Wakefield to the state of Virginia for parcels of land surround- 
ing the vault and birthplace, and also right of zuay. Suitable accommoda- 
tions to facilitate the landing of visitors are also proposed. 

Thejirst of the IVashingtotis in America, John and Laurence, sons of Sir 
"vLaurence Washington, of Sulgrave, near Malmsbury, England, emigrated to 
this country about 1657, and settled at Bridges creek, on the Potomac, in 
Westmoreland county. This Laurence Washington married Mildred Warner, 
of Gloucester county, and had three children, John, Augustine, and Mildred. 
Augustine first married Jane Butler, mentioned above as buried at Wakefield, 
1729, and had three sons and a daughter. By his second wife, Mary Ball, 
daughter of Col. Ball, of Lancaster, married 1730, he had six children, the 
oldest being George, born February 22 (n old style), 1732, on Pope's Creek, 
three-fourths of a mile from its junction with the Potomac, George Wash- 
ington was great-grandson of the first emigrant to America, and sixth from the 
first Laurence of Sulgrave. The parents, soon after the birth of George, re- 
moved to Stafford county, on the Rappahannock, opposite Fredericksburg, 
where the father, who had a large estate, died April 12, 1743. The house in 
which Washington was born was destroyed by fire, which led to the removal 
of the family. 

In June, 1815, G. W. Parke Custis placed a slab of freestone on the site oc- 
cupied by the house, with the inscription — "Here, the 11 of February, 
O. S., 1732, George Washington was born." The slab was set upon a 
base made of the bricks which formerly formed the hearth around which 
Washington in his infancy played. This stone had disappeared at the time of 
tVie writer's visit in 1879. The country which the voyager sees on the shores 
of the broad river, was the scene of Washington's childhood, youth, and man- 
hood ; and here in Westmoreland, on the banks of the Rappahannock, he 
received the experiences which fitted him for the grave responsibilities and 
glory of his subsequent career. 

The mother of Washington died of cancer at Fredericksburg, 1789, after 
his election to the Presidency of the United States. He had an affecting 
parting before he proceeded to the seat of Government. 

Westmoreland county, defined in 1653, and commonly known as the 
"Northern Neck," gave birth to some of the most distinguished sons of Vir- 
ginia, whose names stand foremost on the roll of patriots and heroes of the 
struggle for national independence. Amongst them were George Washington, 
the two Lees, signers of the Declaration of Independence, also Thomas Fran- 
cis and Arthur Lee, brothers of the famous Richard Henry Lee, the owner of 
Chantilly , on the Potomac near Pope's Creek, and once one of the finest es- 
tates of Virginia, now in ruins ; General Henry Lee, Judge Bushrod Wash- 



MOUTH OF THE POTOMAC. 



45 



ington,.and James Monroe, President of the United States. Stjatford, near 
the Potomac just above Chantilly, was the home of Thomas Lee, father of 
Richard Henry Lee, and President of the King's Council and acting Gov- 
ernor of Virginia. In 1879 i"^ ^'^^ still standing. His residence being burned 
while governor, Stratford was erected by the government or London mer- 
chants, at a cost of ;^8o,ooo. It was of imported brick, contained one hun- 
dred rooms, and stables for one hundred horses. The walls were two and a 
half feet thick. The county, owing to the renown of its sons, was known as 
The Athens of Virginia. The year Washington was born, the population of 
the Neck was 3,000 souls, besides 1,000 troops for defence against the Indians. 
The county has numerous v/ater-courses and bays, abounding in fish, oysters, 
and aquatic and land fowl of the finest quality. The country, too, is beauti- 
fully diversified with picturesque hills, on whose summits are ancient man- 
sions, commanding a fine range of vision, taking in at a single sweep the tur- 
bid flood of the Potomac in one direction, and the waters of the Rappahan- 
nock in the other. 

When abreast of Mattox Greek coming down the river. 




Washington's birthplace in .732 (seep. 44J. 

Nomini Cliffs (See page 41) will he seen on the right 
or south bank, extending from about two miles below 
Pope''s Greek for over five miles. They appear as exceed- 
ingly steep sand-cliffs, in some cases precipitous, and 
bare except for a scanty scrub growth clinging to the 
faces, and cut up here and there by narrow ravines. The 
summits are generally wooded, and the edge of the shore 
fringed with trees. Where the cliffs are bare the color is 
reddish, and they are visible for a long distance. Nearly 
opposite to their eastern end on the north ^bank of the 
river is 

Blakistone Isla-nd (See page 47).— From above it looks 
like a long, low island, with clumps of low trees on its 
ends, but grassy in the middle, with a large house on its 
south end, surmounted by a light-tower. This is a great 
summer resort, and is famous for its line-fishing (see gen- 



46 EXCURSION TO THE 

eral information for fishing). It is about 79 miles below 
Washington. Opposite Blakistone Island^ on the main- 
land, is Coltons^ a post hamlet of St. Mary's comity, Md. 

On passing to the eastward of Blakistone Island, two 
large streams open on the north bank of the river, close 
together, but separated by a neck of land, with a grove 
of very tall elms upon it. Of these streams the western- 
most is 

St. Clement's Bay, one mile wide at its mouth, and 
six miles long, which runs in a north direction. iSt. 
ClemenVs Bay^ named 1634 by Leonard Calvert, brother to 
Lord Baltimore, proprietor of Maryland, was the first 
point taken possession of under the Royal charter. 

Leonard Calvert, brother of Cecil Calvert, Lord Baltimore, and first Gov- 
ernor of Maryland, in February, 1634, arrived at Point Comfort, Va., with 
about two hundred Roman Catholic settlers. In March he sailed up the Po- 
tomac, and anchoring near an island which he named St. Clement, raised the 
cross , fired a ca?tnon, and took possession " in the name of the Sajjiour of 
the Tuorld and the King of Great Britain," under the charter granted 1632. 
This charter was granted to Sir George Calvert, first Lord Baltimore, by King 
Charles First, but was executed to the son Cecil, the father having died two 
months before. It granted the present state of Maryland, though within the 
charter of Virginia. The territory was actually in occupation by Virginia at 
Kent Island, opposite the future site of Annapolis. 

The other is Breton Bay, one mile wide at its mouth, 
and five and a half miles long, which runs in an easterly 
and then northeasterly direction to the interesting little 
post village of Leonardstown. county-seat of St. Mary's 
county, Md., and named after Leonard Calvert, who ar- 
rived in this vicinity in 1634, at the head of the first set- 
tlers of Maryland. The Southern Maryland railroad 
passes within two miles. You may carry not less than 
nine feet in St. Clement's up to the head of the bay, but 
it is not mucli used. The same can be carried up to 
Leonardtown in Breton bay, through a crooked channel. 
The country is cultivated and rich, and in summer is very 
beautiful. 

On the south bank of the river, the wide and deep 
bight that makes in about two miles to the eastward of 
the lower end of Nomini Cliffs is 

Nomini Bay, which receives the waters of jS^omini 
creek. Its eastern point is called Kingcopsico Point, and 
is remarkable only for the thick growth of cedar trees on 
its very end. It is quite low and flat. On the Jf omini 
Bay, Patrick Spence and Monroe, one of the Presi- 
dent's ancestors, had a warehouse before 1732. Two 



MOUTH OF TILE POTOMAC. 47 

miles below is the mouth of the Loivei- Machodoc river, 
one and one-fourth miles wide at its mouth. It has good 
water in it. This vicinity is a great place for oysters. 
One and three-fourth miles below the mouth of the 
Machodoc is Bagged Point, low and wooded, except at its 
extremity, which is a mere bare sand spit. 

On the north shore, as soon as we pass Blakistone 
Island, we see to the northward, about one and one-half 
miles off, and one mile east of Blakistone's, a little islet 
about five hundred yards long, composed merely of sand. 
It is called Heron Island, and divides the channels 
leading into Breton and St. GlemenVs hays. It is sur- 
rounded by dangerous shoals, which, however feared by 
navigators, are the source of revenue to the tishernien 
during the season ; as it is on the edge of these flats that 



BLAKISTONE ISLAND (SEE P. 4 j. 

the fish come to feed. The river is nearly live and one 
half miles wide between Kingkopsico Point antl the 
mouth of Breton Bay. 

When abreast of Bagged Point, we perceive nearly 
ahead, and about five miles off on the north bank of the 
river, a low, squat, white light-tow^er, and a dwelling- 
house with a red roof. This is Piney Point Lighthouse, 
on 

Piney Point, Avhich is low, flat, and grassy. As we 
approach, a dazzling white fence is seen around the light- 
tower and dwelling, and soon other white houses are seen 
among the thick trees. On coming abreast of this point, 
we see a level beach backed by grassy land covered with 
low, bushy trees, among which are several long, low, 
white houses in a line a short distance back. This is the 



48 



EXCURSION TO THE 



site of the summer watering place, and the houses are 
the hotel and its adjoining cottages and outbuildings. A 
tall flag-staff is seen among the trees, and there is a very 
good wharf for the steamboats which go and come daily 
during the season. This place is much frequented dur- 
ing the summer, on account of the bathhig and Ashing. 
Pmey Point is also a post village of St. Mary's county, 
Md. The river is here only three and three-fourths 
miles wide, but has a deep channel ninety feet deep, 
about one mile southwest of the lighthouse. At 




PINEY POINT. 



Ragged Point, on the right bank of the Potomac 
turns abruptly, and runs nearly south by east, two and a 
half miles to Jackson''s Creek^ and then about south-east 
for, six miles to LynclVs Pointy the northern point of en- 
trance to Wicomico River. 

St. George's Island. — This island is two and a half 
miles long, low, and nearly level, and diversified with 
cleared lands and groves of trees. A narrow inlet sepa-~ 
rates its northern end from Piney Point beach, and this 
opening communicates with St. George\s Creek, affording 
tine facilities for smooth-water sailing, rowing, and tish- 
ing. St. George'' s Creek separates the island from the 
mainland on the northeast. When abreast of the south- 
eastern end of the island we open the historical 

St. Mary's River, on which was made the earliest set- 
tlement in the state of Maryland. The St. 3£ary^s 
River is two and one-half miles wide at its mouth, and 
runs nearly north, with not less than twenty-one feet at 
low tide as far up as the village of St. Mary's, six miles 
above. It then turns northwesterly for three and a half 



MOUTH OF THE POTOMAC. 49 

miles to its head. The shores are very beautiful in sum- 
mer, and it would repay an excursionist to visit Priesfs 
Point, the site of the ancient church (now destroyed), 
and the little post village of St. Mar if s, both of which 
are on the east bank, and are easily accessible. The 
eastern point of the river is called KitVs Pointy low and 
cleared, and three and a half miles above is Priesfs 
Point, easily distinguishable by the large frame house 
with many windows, which is the dormitory and refectory 
for the theological students at this place. On approach- 
ing the point it is seen to be level, with perpendicular, 
sandy faces, and on the extremity is a wind-mill. Behind 
the mill, and a little farther back from shore, are the ruins 
of two large brick houses, formerly occupied as a church 



PRIEST'S POINT AND SEMINARY. 

and ijriest's house. The large wooden building near the 
beach is occupied as a sort of summer resort for rest and 
recreation for the students for the priesthood, but there 
are also several Roman Catholic clergymen here in charge. 
There is good bathing abreast of the house. The clergy- 
man in charge is courteous, and will show the site of the 
ancient church if desired. Two miles and a half above 
PriesVs Point is the village o«l St. Mary^s, on the east 
bank, and opposite to it on the west bank is West St. 
Mary''s. Both are quite small hamlets, only of import- 
ance on account of their age. 

Leonard Baltimore, from Si. Cle7iient Island, (for which see, page 46) sailed 
up the Potomac River to Piscataway Creek, where Fort Washington now 
stands, and but twelve miles from the present city of Washington. Here he 
opened negotiations with the chief of the Indian village on shore, but finally 
determined for greater security to settle nearer the bay, and after exploring 
the shore, purchased an Indian village, which then stood on the site of the pres- 
ent St. Mary's, and founded a settlement April, 1634. The charter, which was 



50 THE MOUTH OF THE POTOMAC. 

framed by Lord Baltimore himself, and a Roman Catholic, was constructed on 
principles of religious toleration. In 1635, the first Legislative Assembly con- 
vened at St. Mary's, and a representative government of the people was form- 
ally established in 1639. Religious troubles soon broke out, and were a source 
of much disorder between Catholics and Protestants, and during the religious 
wars in England ; but the colony thrived, and with a slight interruption as a 
royal province, it remained under the proprietaries until it became an inde- 
pendent state of the American Confederation. 

The Potomac attains its greatest width between the St. 
Marifs and the Coan rivers, being nearly seven miles 
w^ide. The line joining Point Lookout and SmitWs Point 
at the mouth (which is eleven and a half miles) not being 
at right angles to the course of the river, is therefore 
not a fair measure of its width. The true width at Point 
Lookout is six and a half miles. On the right bank, 
three and a half miles to the eastward of Wicomico river, 
% the mouth of 

Goa-'i Biver, also famous for its oysters, and we may 
add for its oyster-roasts. It is a mile and a half wide at 
its mouth, but rapidly contracts, and gives off two 
branches to the eastward — Kmgscote Creek and The Glehe. 
There is good water in this river and its branches ; but 
the channel is narrow and crooked. In shad season this 
is a famous place for planked shad parties, 
parties. 

From here the south shore of the river runs nearly 
southeast by east for thirteen and a half miles to 

Smith's Point, the south point of entrance to the river 
—but by vessels bound up the bay little of this shore is 
seen, as the course turns to the northward, passmg close 
to Point Lookout. The south shore will therefore appear 
simply as a long line of dark woods to Smith's Point — 
which will be more particularly mentioned in the excur- 
sion to IsTorfolk. On the north bank of the river below 
the St. Mary's there is nothing of interest except 

Point Lookout. The shore is cut up by little creeks, 
such as Smith''s Creek^ CalverVs Creek, Harry James 
Creek, etc., and is all low, level, and cultivated. 

For Smith's Poikt see Excursiox III, From the 
Mouth of the Potomac to Norfolk. 

For Point Lookout see Excursion YI, From the 
Mouth of the Potomac to Baltimore. 



EXCITRSIOKT III. 



From Washington to Fortress Monroe and 
Norfolk, Va. 

Distance from Washington 
To Smith's Point (Mouth Potomac) . . 119 Miles. 

To Fortress Monroe 183 

TOJS[ORFOLK 194 " 

TABLE OF DISTANCES 

From the Mouth of the Potomac (Smith's Point) to points 

on the Chesapeake Bay, compiled by the United 

States Coast and Geodetic Survey. 

From Smith's Point (Mouth of Potomac) to 



Miles. 
Wicomico River ..... 6 

Windmill Point ...... i8J^ 

Rappahannock River Spit . . 21 

Stingray Point 21]^ 

Wolf Trap Spit 30^^ 



Miles. 
York River Spit Lighthouse . 49 
Back River Lighthouse . . . 57^ 
Old Point Comfort (Fortress 

Monroe 64 

Newport News Point .... 71 



New Point Comfort . • ■ 39 Norfolk ... 75 

[Note. — Returning over this route, the reader will follow the narrative in 
the reverse order.] 

The points of interest in the voyage from Washing- 
ton to the Mouth of the Potomac, will be found 
fully described in Excursion II. 

If we are bound to Old Point Comfort [Fortress Mon- 
roe) or Norfolk from Washington^ we turn to the south- 
ward when we reach the mouth of the Potomac, and pass 
close to an iron, screw-pile light-house^ eighty-five feet 
high, standing about two and one-fourth miles from shore. 
This is Smith''s Point lighthouse^ and is placed on the end 
of the long shoal making out from that known as 

Smith's Point, the south point of the entrance to the 
Potomac, and appears when seen from the eastward as a 
low, flat surface, covered with scrubby trees, and having 

(51) 



52 EXCURSION FROM 

a tall, white light-tower on a white, sandy beach on its 
eastern end. A long, low point of dense black woods 
juts out to the westward of the light-tower, marking the 
entrance to the Little WiGomico Biver. Smith's Point is 
also a post hamlet of ]S'orthumberland county, Virginia. 
We have now entered the Chesapeake Bay. 

THE CHESAPEAKE BAY. 

The Chesapeake Bay^ the largest inland water of the 
kind in the United States, extends from the mouth of the 
Susquehanna river, about latitude 39° 37' north, to Old 
Point Comfort, about latitude 37*^ north, a distance of 
about two hundred miles, and has a imdth varying from 
four to ten miles in the upper, and twenty to forty miles 
in the lower bay. Its outlet into the Atlantic Ocean is 
between Cape Charles on the north, and Cape Henry 
on the south, both in Virginia. The distance from cape 
to cape is fifteen miles. From the head of the bay to 
latitude 38° north, its waters are entirely in Maryland, 
and south of that parallel in Yirgmia. The eastern 
shore, a peninsula with the Atlantic on the east and 
bay on the west, embraces eight counties in Maryland 
and two in Virginia. The bay, from the capes almost to 
the mouth of the Susquehanna has a depth sufficient for 
vessels of the greatest draught. It is also indented with 
a great number of inlets and estuaries, through some of 
which empty the important rivers, such as the Susque- 
hanna, Elk, Choptank, Patuxent, Nanticoke, and Poto- 
mac, in Maryland, and the Rappahannock, York, and 
James, in Virgmia, and innumerable rivers of less im- 
portance. The Patapsco, upon which is Baltimore, and 
the Severn, upon which stands Annapolis, are really 
parts of the bay. 

The Chesapeake Bay also abounds in fish of great va- 
riety and of the finest quality, and the innumerable bights 
are filled with an abundance of game which resorts to 
salt and fresh water. 

On the Atlantic coast south of Cape Henry, the sounds, 
estuaries, and rivers are shallow, and ofiCer but few good 
harbors. Following the coast northward, the Chesapeake 
is the first of a series of deep and commodious bays from 
Virginia to Maine. 

Nearlv six miles to the southward of Smith'' s Point is 



WASHINGTON TO NORFOLK. 53 

the entrance to the Great Wicomico Biver^ two miles 
wide at its mouth. The eastern shore of the bay being 
all low marsh, is scarcely visible, and not at all notice- 
able to parties passing down the main channel. The 
main entrance to 

Tangier Sound, famous for oysters, is opposite to the 
Great Wicomico, but the bay is here nearly fifteen miles 
wide, so only the western shore is seen. Many small in- 
lets penetrate this western shore. 

The greatest ividth of the bay is reached at Dimer''s 
Creek^ fifteen and a half miles below Smith's Point, and 
four miles above Windmill Pointy the north point of en- 
trance to the Bappahannock. Here the width, with an 
almost unobstructed channel, is very nearly twenty-five 
miles from shore to shore ! Windmill Pointy the north 
point of entrance to th 



smith's point (see p. 51.) 

Rappahannock, is eighteen and one-half miles below 
the mouth of the Potomac. Bappahannock Spit makes 
off from this point in a southeast direction, and a screw- 
pile light-house, placed on its end, about two and three- 
eighths miles off shore, serves to mark the entrance. 
The river is nearly three and three fourths miles wide, and 
its southern point, called Stingray Pointy is also marked 
by a screw-pile light-house, built in the water one and 
three-eighths miles from the point. At night a red light 
is shown from this light-house, while that on the north 
side, on Rappahannock Spit, is white. 

In April, 1813, a flotilla of 12 armed gun-boats, from Cockburn's fleet, en- 
tered the mouth of tjie Rappahanock, and made an attack on the Dolphin, a 
Baltimore privateer, lo guns, and three schooners about to sail for France. A 



54 FROM WASHINGTON TO NORFOLK. 

desperate contest followed, and the schooners were soon disposed of; but the 
Dolphin was only taken, after a desperate encounter on her decks, against the 
overwhelming numbers of the British. 

Stingray Point also forms the northern point of en- 
trance to the 

Piankatank River, a deep but crooked stream, pene- 
trating this shore about twelve miles. It is famous for 
its oysters. HilVs Bay^ on its southern bank, being es- 
pecially noted. The river is nearly three miles wide at 
its mouth, but rapidly contracts, and at Iron Point, less 
than four miles inside its mouth, it is but seven-eighths 
of a mile wide. This river is ninety-seven miles long to 
Fredericksburg, at the head of navigation. 

Wolf Trap Spit, a long shoal making out from the west 
shore is a little over nine miles below the Rappahannock, 
and has on its eastern extremity a screw-pile light-house, 
two and seven-eighths miles from the nearest land. This 
light-house shows at night a fixed white light, varied by 
bright flashes to distinguish it from its neighbors. ISTearly 
nine miles below it we will see the white tower on New 
Point Comfort, at the north point of entrance to Mohjack 
Bay, and directly opposite to Cherrystone Inlet, on the 
east shore. Here the bay is scarcely fourteen miles wide, 
and the 

Eastern Shore is just visible from the channel. 

The eastern shore here is in Virginia, and consists of the two isolated coun- 
ties of Accomac, established in 1673, and Northampton, in 1634, under the 
original name of Accomac Shire, and changed to its present name in 1673. This 
is the southern point of the Peninsula. The soil and climate are excellent, and 
gardening the chief pursuit. The fig and pomegranate thrive, and the castor 
bean is a staple. Here the old-time fashion Virginia hospitality and the an- 
tique gig still reign in ail their ancient sway. Many ancient records are also 
here preserved. 

Mohjack Bay is a great indentation m the western 
shore, which receives the waters of East, JSTorth, Ware, 
and Severn rivers ; it is about four miles wide, and has 
plenty of water in it, but is only of importance on 
account of its oysters, which are of excellent quality. 
A steamboat runs here twice a week from Norfolk and 
Old Point. The mouth of the 

York River is marked by a screw-pile light-house, built 
on the end of York Spit, over seven miles from the near- 
est land. At night it shows a red light. The shores on 
both sides of the entrance to this river are low marsh, 
but once inside, the land is fast and very generally culti- 
vated. There is another screw-pile light-house of Too''s 
Point, the southern point of entrance ; here the river 



56 EXCURSION FROM 

is two and a half miles wide. On this river, seven miles 
above Too's Point is 

Yorktown, the scene of the surender, October 19, 
1783, of Marquis Cornwallis and his whole army of 8,054 
troops, sailors, and marines. Congress appropriated for 
the erection of a suitable monument on the site of the 
surrender, and preparations are being made, under the 
auspices of Cong-ress, for a becoming celebration of the 
centennial anniversary of the British surrender. 

The river has a length of thirty-two miles to 

West Point, where it branches, the western branch 
being known as the Pcmmnkey river, and leading up to 
the White House, famous in the history of the army of 
the Potomac. The eastern branch, called the Mattapony^ 
was also well known during the Rebellion, 1861-65. 

To the southward of the York River we begin to ap- 
proach the land on the west side, and a white light-tower 
will soon be seen standing on the beach. This is Back 
River Light-house, which shows a fixed white light, flash- 
ing brightly at intervals of one and a half minutes ; and 
the opening is the mouth of Back River. The light is 
the first indiCcttion of the approach to 

Old Point Comfort, being only about six and one-fourth 
miles to the northward of it. The light-house on the 
latter point will be visible from abreast of Back River 
Light, and also the lines of Fortress Monroe, the huge 
bamicks-llke buildings of the Hi/geia Hotel, and the tall 
dome of the Soldier's Home at Hampton. The hotel is 
noticeable for its tall mansard cupola, and, on a nearer 
approach, for the large pavillion with striped roof in front 
of it. 

Old Point Comfort (Fortress Monroe) is eleven miles from Norfolk. The For- 
tress stands on the point at the entrance to Hampton Roads, ixnA \!tv^ Rip 
Raps are opposite at a distance of 1900 yards. The /^^r/'r^.s'j affords a safe 
anchorage in time of war, and guards the approach to Hampton Roads, the 
Chesapeake Bay, and the James River A. fort stood here in 1812. 

Fortress Monroe is a granite, casemated work, sur- 
mounted by traverses and parapet of earth, (see p. 55.) 
A large water-battery of granite, also casemated, stands 
on the beach in front of the southeastern angle of the 
works. There is quite a settlement at Old Point on the 
government grounds ; and it is a great summer-resort, 
the travel thither increasing every year. You can reach 

Hampton either by hiring a carriage, which can al- 
ways be obtained in" front of the hotel, or by steamer. 



WASHINGTON TO NORFOLK. 57 

The village is on Hampton Creek, about two and a half 
miles from the wharf at Old Point, and fourteen miles 
from Norfolk, The points of interest are the Hampton 
Academy for colored and Indian youth, and the Soldier's 
Home. It was also the scene of a desperate conflict in 
the war of 1812. 

To avenge their defeat at Craney Island, the British attacked Hampton» 
the county seat of Elizabeth county, Va. There were 450 Virginia militia and 
a handful of artillerymen here to defend the village. On the night of June 24, 
2500 British troops were landed in boats, under cover of a sloop of war, two 
miles from the town. Admiral Cockburn meantime made a feint off Black- 
beard's Point, at the mouth of Hampton Creek. The Americans opened a 
brisk fire on the boats, and soon drove them under shelter under the point. 
The land troops advancing were warmly received and at first thrown into a 
panic; but, recovering, again advanced, and again the Americans, on Celey's 
road, charged and drove them back, killing a Lieutenant-Colonel and a num- 
ber of men. While in pursuit, the British suddenly opened a storm of grape, 
canister, and rockets immediately in front of the attacking force of Americans, 
causing them to break. This turned the tide of battle. The British followed 
up their advantage, executing a flank movement, threatening the American 
line of retreat, thus ending the battle; and entered Hampton by the Yorktown 
road. The village was given up to pillage, and the women, old and young, 
to treatment which only the license of barbarous war would countenance. The 
atrocities, particularly on the women, caused a sense of indignation and horror 
even in England, and throughout the civilized world. Sir Charles Napier, in 
his diary, says, " Every horror was perpetrated with impunity — rape, murder, 
pillage — and not a man was punished." Cockburn, to stimulate his men, who 
were getting worsted, promised " booty and beauty." 

Directly south of the light-house at Old Pointy and in 
the middle of the roads is a warlike structure in the 
shape of a casemated work of granite, standing ap- 
parently in the water, but in an unfinished condition. 
This is Fort Wool^ built upon the northern end of the 
shoal of Willougliby'' s Point, called the 

Blip-Raps. — It was intended for harbor defence. At 
the beginning of the liebellion, a twenty-inch Rodman 
gun, throwing a 1,250 pound projectile, was mounted 
here. The completion of the fort was practically aban- 
doned after the late war. 

The Rip Raps, originally the shoal water which, under the action of the 
waves on a bar was kept in a constant ripple, received this name, comprised 
an area of five acres, the greatest part twenty-two feet below the surface of the 
water, and the rest eighteen feet. On this space an island was raised by 
throwing rocks in the water, and a castle of defense was commenced. This 
was carried up to the first embrasure, but, owing to the settling of the founda- 
tion, it was abandoned. It now remains unfinished; but, like a sentinel, 
stands to guard the doorway to the "American Mediterranean." 

The great area of water extending from Old Point 
Comfort to the mouth of the James river is known as 

Hampton Roads, the estuary of the James river, which 
affords one of the most commodious, though not always 
comfortable, and finest anchorages in the world, and has 



58 EXCURSION FROM 

a depth sufficient for the largest vessels. It is about six 
miles long east and west, by four miles north and south, 
and has water sufficient for the largest vessels. The 
James River flows into its western end, the Nansemond 
into its southwestern, and the Elizabeth into its southeast- 
ern side. As we come into the roads, a remarkable look- 
ing, white, sandy point, like a low bluff, will be seen to 
the southward, apparently marking the southern limits 
of the anchorage. It is crowned with low, black-looking 
trees. This is SewaWs Pointy the eastern point of en- 
trance to the Elizabeth Bive7% and celebrated during the 
war as the site of effective batteries. To the westward 
the low, sandy point, covered with a scanty growth of 
scrub, with here and there a lone, tall tree, and showing 
a few houses on the beach, is Newport News Pointy the 
northern point of entrance to James river. Between 
these two points — SewaWs and Newport News — took 
place some of the most exciting events of the late war. 

Here the Merrimac, coming down the Elizabeth from Norfolk, encountered 
and destroyed the frigates Cumberland at?d Congress ; and here she herself 
was defeated and driven back to Norfolk by the Monitor, under command of 
Commodore Worden. Here rendezvoused the great fleets that went forth to 
attack Port Royal in i86i and Fort Fisher in 1864. It was off Newport News 
Point that the plucky Davidson, formerly a lieutenant in our navy, brought 
down the torpedo boat " Snipe" in the middle of the night, and placed and 
exploded a huge torpedo under the bottom of the frigate Minnesota, the flag 
ship of the North Atlantic squadron. Fortunately, the torpedo exploded ex- 
actly under the shot-room, and the heavy solid shot formed a mass too power- 
ful for the explosion to overcome. The ship was not seriously injured, though 
her people were badly scared. Davidson escaped with his little craft, 
and arrived safely at Richmond. It was off Newport News also that the 
cruiser Florida was " accidentally " sunk when it was found that interna- 
tional law would probably compel the United States to return her to Brazil, 
and to the port of Bahia, whence she was cut out. She was sent up to New- 
port News by Admiral Porter, and anchored in nine fathoms. Shortly utter, 
a powerful steamer belonging to the Quartermaster's department of the army 
of the James, ran into her at night, and sunk her. Her officers and crew 
were saved. In the Nansemond took place some of the severest naval fighting 
of the war. Lieutenant Lamson and Lieutenant Cushing, in two small pur- 
chased gun boats, harrassed the enemy to such an extent that they were finally 
oblig^'d to entirely withdraw from the river banks. Both officers received the 
thanks of the department for their services. 

Leaving Fortress Monroe, we proceed directly over 
towards SewalVs Pointy bound up to Norfolk. 

Craney Island Lighthouse, a little over one-half a mile 
to the northeast of the island of that name, lies close in 
with the west shore of the river. It is easily recognized 
by the earthwork on its eastern end, and the buildings be- 
longing to the Kaval Magazine, which is established on 
this island. 



WASHINGTON TO NORFOLK. 69 

A British yieet, consxiiting of four seventy-four gun frigates and eight vessels, 
carrying from twenty to forty-four guns, and a number of smaller vessels, 
under Admiral Sir George Cockburn, with 1800 men, and appliances for land- 
ing, arrived in Hampton roads in February , 1813. The -iiiilitia of the coim- 
try around Norfolk and the Peninsula, rallied to defence. Fortifications were 
thrown up at Craney Island, five miles below Norfolk, and every preparation 
to meet the enemy was made. 

In June, 1813, Admiral Warren, with his fleet, and Sir Sidney Beckwith in 
command of troops and marines, entered Hampton Roads, and, after destroy- 
ing vessels on the James, turned his attention to Norfolk. The defenses con- 
sisted of the Constellation and twenty gun boats, Forts Norfolk and Nelson 
on either side of the mouth of the Elizabeth River, Craney Island, containing 
thirty acres, and Forts Tar and Barbour on the land side. 

It was determined to make the defense at Craney Island. The whole force 
oi A'>7iericans on the island the night before the attack (June 21, 1813,) was 
737 men, inclnding 30 regulars, 150 seamen, and the rest volunteers and 
militia. The British landed 2500 infantry and marines at Hoffleur's Creek 
on the main land, and moved up to Wise's Creek and beyond, to get the 
American rear. Simultaneously with this movement, 50 barges, with 1500 
seamen and marines, approached from the British fleet, led by Admiral War- 
ren's beautiful barge, the Centipede, fifty feet long, and manned by twenty-four 
oarsmen, carrying a brass three-pounder, and commanded by Captain 
Hanchett, a natural son of George III. As the barges approached, the Ameri- 
cans waited until they reached within range, and then opened a terrible fire. 
After resisting for awhile, the British were thrown into great confusion. The 
Admiral's barge was hulled, wounding several of the men, including her com- 
mander, and went to the bottom ; four others also sunk, and the rest of the 
flotilla retreated to the ships. The result was mortifying to the British, 
Discomfited and routed on water and land, they abandoned any further 
demonstrations against Norfolk. 

After the repulse' of the British, June, 1813, Craney Island was fortified. A 
fort was erected on the southeast end of the island, and a brick magazine and 
breastworks on the northwestern, with a connecting line of entrenchments on 
the channel side of the island, with embrasures for cannon. The embank- 
ments are still visible. 

The fort on the right bank of the Elizabeth river, with 
the gently sloping lawn, dotted with pyramids of shot 
and shell, and occupied by a red-brick house, is 

Fort Norfolk, built during the war of the Revolution, 
1776-83, and was the powder depot for the navy before it 
was removed to Craney Island. On the south side of 
this point is Paradise Creek^ shallow and unimportant ; 
while nearly directly opposite to the Naval Hospital 
wharf is Town Point, the northwest extremity of Nor- 
folk. The large, square mooring buoys between this 
point and Fort Norfolk mark the usual "JVav// Anchor- 
age,''^ as it is called, for vessels intending to take in pow- 
der and other ammunition. 

Norfolk, in Norfolk county, created in 1691, lies on the 
north bank of Elizabeth river, has one of the most com- 
modious and secure harhors, at all seasons, in the world. 
It is also completely fortilied. The Navy Yard, Pry 
Dock, Marine Hospital, etc. , once were the finest under 



60 FROM WASHINGTON TO NORFOLK. 

government. It is the great commercial port of Virginia, 
and the entrepot of the produce from the south via the 
Dismal Swamp Canal. Before the war of 1812 it con- 
trolled the West India trade of this region. Its City 
Hall is very fine. It is also an important railroad centre, 
and from here a line of ocean steamers departs for the 
principal northern sea-ports. 

Norfolk is also the northern terminus of the Dismal 
Swamp Canal, twenty-two miles long, constructed in 
1829 through the mire and aqueous vegetation of the \ 
Dismal Swamp, to connect the waters of the Chesapeake 
Bay in Virginia, and Albemarle and Pamlico Sounds of 
North Carolina. This remarkable morass is thirty miles 
long and ten miles wide, and is overgrown with an im- 
penetrable network of reeds, bamboo, briars, cypress, 
cedar, and gall-bush. In winter and summer vegetation 
wears a perennial hue. 

At Norfolk the river branches — the main stream keep- 
ing nearly due south past 

Portsmouth and Gosport, at which latter place is sit- 
uated the Navy Yard, w^hile the Eastern Branch keeps \ 
to the eastward, skirting the wharf line on the south side 
of the city, and affording dock-room for nearly all of the 
carrying trade which comes here. The only prominent 
buildhigs seen from the river on the Norfolk side are the 
Custom House, which is of granite with pillars in front — 
and the Atlantic Hotel, a large brick structure. 

The Navy Yard at 

Gosport shows its large ship-houses and the tall masts 
of the receiving-ship from below Town Point. This 
naval station, which used to be the most important of 
all the dock-yards on the Atlantic coast, is of interest 
now to travelers only as having been the yard where the 
Merrimac was refitted and iron-plated ; and whence she 
wTnt forth on her mission of destruction. Many relics 
of her, as well as of the old Pennsylvania, ship of the 
line, which was destroyed when the yard w^as evacuated 
by our forces, are preserved and shown to visitors. 
When the rebellion broke out, the Wavy Yard at Gos- 
port, with several million dollars' worth of Grovernment 
property and vessels, were destroyed or seized (April, 
1861) by the Confederates of Virginia. 



EXCITRSIOIT IV- 



From Washington via Fortress Monroe 
and Norfolk to Richmond. 

From Washington 
To Old Point Comfort (Fortress Monroe) 183 Miles. 

To :N^orfolk 194 " 

To Richmond 300 " 

TABLE OF DISTANCES 

From Old Point Comfort to points on the James River, 
compiled by the Coast and Geodetic Sm^vey. 

From Old Point Comfort to 

Miles. ! Miles. 



Newport News Point .... 7 
Pig Point (Entrance to Nanse- 

mond River) to 

White Shoal Lighthouse (Day's 

Point) 14% 

Mulberry Island 22 

Point of Shoals Lighthouse . 23 
Deep Water Shoals Lighthouse . 26 

Hog Island 295^ 

Swan's Point ^6 



Jamestown Island (Southeast 

End) . . . ^ 34 

Chickahominy Entrance ... 45 

Wilson's Wnarf 50 

Windmill Point 57% 

Harrison's Landing 63 

Jordan's Point 66 

City Point 69 

Dutch Gap Canal 91 

Richmond 109 



The tourist, for the voyage from Was/iington to the 
Mouth of the Potomac^ will see Excursion II., and from 
the mouth of the Potomac to Norfolk^ Excursion III. 
At Norfolk the tourists can take one of the fine rive^- 
steamers for Richmond. Tourists returning will read 
in reverse order. 

THE JAMES RIVER. 

The Cow Pasture Biver^ the principal fountain-stream 
of the James^ has its source on the slopes of the great 
North Mountain, in Pendleton county, Virginia,- and 
within sight of the headwaters of the Potomac Where 
Jackson and Cow Pasture rivers unite in the defiles be- 
tween Potts and Mill mountains, the stream first receives 
the name of the James. 

(61) 



62 EXCURSION FROM 

On its winding course through the bold and pictur- 
esque succession of mountain ranges of Virginia, it trav- 
erses a romantic gap in the Blue Ridge, within sight of 
the celebrated Peaks of Otter. From this point the 
stream is navigable, and traverses some of the richest 
and most beautiful counties included m the expansive 
valley of the James, from Old Point Comfort to the Al- 
legheny mountains, a distance of 225 miles, and a mean 
width of 50 miles. At the Falls at Bichmond it meets 
the tide, and thence resembles a lake more than a river, 
and enters the Chesapeake Bay between Willoughby 
Point and Old Point Comfort, after a course of five hun- 
dred and eight miles from its headwaters. The river has 
a rapid descent in places. Its source is 2,500 feet above 
tide. At the Blue Ridge it is 800 feet, at Lynchburg 
500 feet, and at Columbia, 175 feet. 

The distance from Old Point Comfort to Bichmond^ by 
the James Biver. is one hundred and nine miles, but its 
navigation above Harrison'' s Landing is exceedingly 
difficult, owing to the narrowness and crookedness of the 
channel. On leaving 

Old Point Comfort, the steamer heads to the westward 
towards Newport News. Since the settlement of this 
point as the terminus of the new branch road from Rich- 
mond, a village has grown up, as the Point has all the 
advantages of good water and accessibility. 

Newport News was named after Captain Christopher Newport, who 
landed here, with Captain John Smith, from his ships, in May, 1607, while 
exploring the shores prior to the selection of Jamestown Island for the proposed 
settlement. 

On the south shore, the eastern point of entrance to the 
Nansemond, Pig Point, will be seen. A settlement was 
established here in 1609, from Jamestown, and was de- 
stroyed by the Indians in the Indian massacre a few years 
later. The western point of entrance to the James, 
which is called Fishing Point, is low and level, but is 
covered with an exceptionally heavy growth of trees. 
Seen from the aSTewport News side it appears like a group 
of islands. The insular appearance is caused by the 
marsh between the fast lands, on which are the trees. 
The river is here a little over three miles wide. Above 

Newport News Point there are no objects of special 
interest except the mouth of Pagan Creek, which leads 
up to Smithfield, famous for its hams. Almost directly 



WASHINGTON TO RICHMOND. 



63 



opposite is tlie inoutli of Warivick Biver. Tlie screw- 
pile light -house, in mid-river nearly midway between the 
mouth of Pagan Creek and the east shore, is Dee}) Water 
Shoal Light, and we leave it close to on the starboard 
hand. After passing Day^s Point, the jiorth point of 
Pagan creek, the steamer enters the deep bight called 
BurioelVs Bay, and comes to Point of Shoals Light, an- 
other screw-pile structure on the western end of the 
great oyster-beds off the bay, and marking the turning- 
point in the channel. 

Both shores of the river show alternate cultivated 
lands and woods. Beyond BurweWs Bay is 

Mulberry Point, the north end of Mulberry Island 
(see Hog Island below) which separates Warwick Biver 




JAMESTOWN ISLAND (SEE P. 64). 

from the James. The river now turns to the northward, 
and we see ahead Beep Water Shoals Light. The chan- 
nel passes on its western side. Beyond and opposite this 
light is 

Hog Island, to w^hich the Jamestown settlers repaired 
when about to abandon the settlement. 

Scarcity of provisions, bad administration, and universal disorder having 
caused great disappointment, at a council it was determined to return to Eng^ 
land. On June lo, 1610, at night, all having gone aboard, the two vessels 
dropped down to Hog- Island, and next morning fell down to Mulberry Point. 
Here the deserting settlers spied Lord Delaware's ships. But for his timely 
arrival they would have been away on the ocean. Lord Delaware induced 
them to return, and Jamestown Island was reoccupied, never to be again 
abandoned. 

At Tavern Point, which is four and a half miles above 
Deep Water Shoals light, the river turns abruptly to the 
southwestward. The low, marshy shore on the north 
and west, interspersed with spurs of high pme woods, is 



64 EXCURSION FROM 

Jamestowa Island, the site of the first permanent set- 
tlement made by the English on these shores. The ruins 
of the old church still remain, and are visible from the 
river. They stand upon Church Pointy near the north- 
west end of the island, in a grove of trees ; and seen from 
the river look more like the ruins of a brick tower than 
anything else. Abreast of the old church the river is 
only one and one-eighth miles wide, tlie southwest point . 
being known as Swan''s Point. 

After the repeated failures of Raleigh at Roanoke Inlet under the patents of 
1584., leaving nothing but the name Virginia, after Elizabeth the Virgin queen, 
in December, i6j6. Captain John Smith, with three ships, was sent out by the 
London company, and, after a cruise through the Cariboean Islands, anchored 
within the mouth of the Bay of Chesapeake. Before landing, he named the 
south cape Henry, and the north Charles, in honor of the king's two eldest 
sons, and the river, which the Indians called Powhatan, he called James, after 
his sovereign. Smith made a careful exploration of the river for an eligible 
location for a settlement. Finally he chose a site thirty-four miles up the river, 
" which, besides the goodness of the soil, was esteemed as most fit and capa- 
ble to be made a place both of trade and security, two-thirds thereof being 
environed by the main river, which affords good anchorage all along, and the 
other third by a small narrow river, capable of receiving many vessels of a 
hundred tons quite as high as till it meets within thirty yards of the main 
river again, and where, at the spring tides, it overflows into the main river." 
The island contained about 2000 acres of highland, and good pasture. 
Robert Beverlej', in his excellent history of Virginia, printed in London, 
1722, alluding to the cupidity of the first settlers, says, "'They found in a 
neck of land on the back of Jamestown Island a fresh stream of water spring- 
ing out of a small bank, which washed down a yellow sort of dust-isinglass 
which, being cleansed by the fresh streaming of the water, lay shining in the 
bottom of that limpid element, and stirred up in them an unseasonable and 
inordinate desire after riches. * * * Tacy spoke not nor thought ot anythuig 
but gold. * * * Accordingly, they put into this ship all the yellow dirt they 
had gathered, and what skins and furs they had trucked lor, and sent her 
away." This was in 1607. Soon after, a second snip was thus loaded. From 
Jamestown, Smith explored the Bay and James and Potomac rivers. 

James City county, in which Jamestown Island is situated, was one of the 
eight original shires into whicti the colony of Virginia was divided by the 
legislature of 1634. 

In June, ^619, Gov. Sir George Yeardley called the^rsi legislative assembly 
on the American continent. The representatives were elected, the counties 
not yet having been established, by townships, the boroughs of Jamestown, 
Henrico, Bermuda Hundred, and others, sending their delegates. Tue Lower 
Branch received the name of House of Bu7-gesses. The acts passed by this 
assembly were sent to the London company to be read in the court, and to be 
confirmed or annulled. 

In 1698, a great fire having occurred at Jamestown, consuming the public 
records, the capital of the colony was removed to Williamsburg, settled in 
1632, seven miles from Jamestown, and remained there until removed to Rich- 
mond in 1779. 

At Swan's Point the James makes another turn— the 
river running nearly west tor over five miles to Dancing 
Pointy the western point of entrance to the 

Chickahominy River. — This small and ordinarily in- 
significant stream has a place in history from its intimate 
connection with the operations of the Army of the Po- 



WASHINGTON TO RICHMOND. 



65 



tomac in 18()2-G3. The river, ruiiiiiiig in a northerly di- 
rection, is navigable for light- draught vessels for about 
seven miles, after which it turns to the northwestward, 
and passes about seven miles back of the city of Rich- 
mond, Its banks are mostly a deadlij mvamp^ affording 
good sport to the hunter, but brought to the unac- 
climated army more devastation than the bullet. 

A mile beyond Dancing Point is one of the famous 
plantations of ancient days, known as Sandy Point, once 
the home of the famous Harry Lee, known in Revolu- 
tionary times as "Light-horse Harry;" now in other 
hands. Directly opposite to it on the south bank of the 
river is Sloop Point, a high, steep bluff, covered with 
t];ees. Here the river is three-fourths of a mile wide, 
with a depth of from twenty-four to thirty feet. 




THE RUINS OF JAMESTOWN (SEE P. t)^.). 



One mile and a quarter above this point, where you 
will see a long wharf built out, is Glaremont, another 
large plantation of old days. 

On the north side of Chipoak begin the famous Bran- 
don Plantations, called Lower and Upper Brandon^ 
occupying the whole width of the peninsula between this 
reach and the next. The river here runs nearly due 
north three and three-fourths miles to Kennon^s Marsh. 
At Lower Brandon, whose landing is about seven-eighths 
of a mile above Chipoak Creek, the large two-story 
brick house seen through the trees is the mansion. Tip- 
per Brandon joins Lotoer Brandon on the northwest, but 
its front is on the next reach, and is not seen until we 
we have rounded Kennon^s Marsh. Kennon^s Marsh is 
quite extensive, and occupies the whole of the north end 



66 EXCURSION FROM 

of the peninsula. Directly opposite to it on the north 
bank is Kennon''s Plantation^ on a bare bluff about 
thirty feet high. The mansion and outbuildings when 
seen from the river form in appearance quite a settle- 
ment. Here the river is only six hundred and fifty yards 
wide, with a depth of from thirty to one hundred feet. 

At Kennon's the river makes another sharp bend,, and 
runs nearly soutliwest for four miles, with an average 
width of three-fourths of a mile — to Weynoak Point. 
We pass the small plantation of Milton^ three-fourths of 
a mile above Kennon's, and then we come to the landing 
of Upper Brandon, where there is a long wharf. The 
lields are level and cleared, and glimpses of the houses of 
the plaiitation may be obtained here and there through 
the trees that fringe the shore. Dunmore Plantation 
adjoins Upper JBrandon on the south side, being sepa- 
rated from it by a small creek, with thickly-wooded 
banks. The shore is a sand-bluff fringed with trees, and 
so continues to the mouth of WarcVs Creek, at the south 
end of the reach. The buildings at Dunmore stand 
three-fourths of a mile back, but are visible from the 
river. The cleared and cultivated fields to the south- 
ward of Milton and opposite to Dunmore, are part of the 
plantation of Weynoak, which occupies the whole width 
of the peninsula on this side. The creek that opens at 
the south end of the reach is Ward''s Greek, and between 
this and Weynoak Marshes on the north side, the stream 
turns about west-northwest, so as to skirt the marshes, 
and then runs nearly due north again for nearly three 
miles. 

On the west bank of the creek begin the bluffs, which 
extend beyond 

Fort Powhatan. — This site is a high, bold, bare bluff, 
with an earthwork on top and a group of houses. It is 
directly opposite to Weynoak Marshes, and here the 
river is only one-fourth of a mile wide, deep from shore 
to shore, and has from fifty to ninety feet of water. The 
creek that makes in just above the fort is Flower -dew 
Hundred Creek, and forms the southern boundary of 
Flower-dew Hundred, a large plantation occupying the 
whole peninsula between this and the next reach. 

As you pass Fort Powhatan, the view beyond is crossed 
by a very pecuUar-looking red sand-bluff, appearmg 



WASHINGTON TO RICHMOND. 

among the trees ahead, and a long stretch of yellow 
sand-bluffs continues to the westward until hidden be- 
hind Windmill Point. This is WUcox''s^ and there is a 
wharf here directly opposite to Windmill Point., where 
we turn into the next reach. The wide creek on the 
north shore is Court-house Creek. 

Windmill Point is low and thickly wooded. The 
river between it and Wilcox's turns nearly west, and we 
pass, first the plantations at Flower-dew Hundred., on the 
south bank, then the remarkable-looking Westover House ^ 
on tlie north bank, the former home of Gen, Harrison; 
and tlien about one and a half miles above Westover we 
see the ruins of a large wharf, and also a large dwelling 
and a few houses back. This is 



HARRISON'S LANDING. 



Harrison's Landing, famous in the late war as the 
place to which Gen. McClelland retreated after the seven 
days' fight in 1862, The wharf is on the plantation of 
Berkeley. The light-house seen ahead, but on the south 
bank of the river, is Jordan'' s Point Light, and the wide 
bay on the eastern side of it is Tar Bay. It is on the 
extremity of the point, and when you come abreast of it 
you see City Point ahead and about three miles off. Be- 
tween City Point and Jorclan^s Point there is a deep bay 
formed on the south bank of the river, so that it is here 
one and three-fourths miles wide half way between the 
two points. City Point when first seen will appear of 
moderate height, pretty thickly settled, the houses inter- 
spersed with trees and cleared lands back, dotted here 
and there with scattered trees. The thickly-wooded 
point on the noi^h bank just opposite is the south end of 
Eppes'' Island. 



68 EXCURSION FROM 

City Point is tiie southern point of entrance to tlie 
Appomattox Biver. The Appomattox^ on which were 
Eought some of the bloodiest combats of the war, here 
opens to tlie westward, looking like a deep bay or bight 
owing to the wide opening at its mouth, suddenly con- 
tracting about a mile above to a width of about three 
liundred and fifty yards. This opening is nearly seven- 
eighths of a mile wide between City Point and Bermuda 
Hundred, the north point of entrance. This latter is 
high land, wooded in places, but mostly cleared and cul- 
tivated ; but where the settlement is, the land is low and 
covered with a scattered growth of trees. City Point 
was the great depot of supplies, etc. , for the armies oper- 
ating against Richmond m the war of 1861-65, and was 
for a time General G-rant's headquarters. Petersburg is 
situated on the Appomattox south bank, a little over ten 
miles above its mouth. 

At City Point the James turns abruptly to the north- 
ward, and runs in a nearly north-northeastly direction for 
three miles to the southeast end of Turkey Island. It 
gradually contracts its banks, being nearly three-fourths 
of a mile wide at Bermuda Hundred^ and only about 
four hundred yards at the southeast point of Turkey 
Island. Here begins the great 

Turkey Bend — the river skirting Turkey Island^ in 
nearly a complete circle, being in no place more than one- 
half mile wide, and generally only about two hundred 
and fifty or three hundred yards wide. Turkey Island 
was the ancient seat of the Randolphs. Opposite Ber- 
muda Hundred is the plantation of Shirley ; two and a 
half miles above Shirley^ on the same bank, is Haxall — 
but there are no prominent features. All of this country 
was constantly bemg fought over during the war. On 
rounding Turkey Island and turning to the southward, 
the land on our right is Curies^ Neck. The hills about a 
mile back, in a line with Turkey Island Creek, are 

Malvern Hills, where was fought the bloodiest of the 
seven days' fight (1862). The creek opening to the west- 
ward as we come to this reach is Curies'^ Swamp Greek. 
The river rounds Curies Neck exactly as it does Turkey 
Island^ and this bend is called Curies^ Bend. The width 
between banks is from two hundred and fifty yards to 
three-eighths of a mile. The Curies Plantation is seen 
on the east bank, just as the river turns to the north. 



WASHINGTOiSr TO RICHMOND. 69 

Here is the second har above Giti/ Point — the first one 
abreast of Bermuda Hundred with fourteen feet, and 
this opposite Curies^ with thirteen feet. As a rule wlier- 
ever the river widens above this you are crossing a shal- 
low ; the narrower the river the deeper it is. Jones'' 
Neck is a long, narrow neck of land, edged with a dike, 
and the banks are mostly wooded. It begins opposite to 
Curles\ and extends to the northward a little over two 
miles, forming the banks on the left as we go up. A 
mile and three-eighths above Curies'' is Tilghman\-< 
Wharf; and just beyond this the river tiirns again to the 
westward, rounding the north end of Jones'' Neck^ and 
then turning to the south along the west side of the neck. 

Abreast of the north end of the JSTeck is Four-mile 
Greeks and on the western bank of this creek is 

Deep Bottom, both famous in the history of the Army 
of the Potomac. Here was a pontoon bridge, where 
Grant crossed to the north bank of the James. The 
river is only about one hundred and seventy-five yards 
wide. From the north end of Jones'' Neck it runs to the 
southward for one and one-half miles, and then nearly 
due vv^est through a very pretty country for two miles to 

Dutch Gap. — This famous place, so well known on ac- 
count of the canal cut across it by General Butler's 
troops in 1864, is a very narrow neck of land, only about 
one hundred and fifty yards wide, which formerly joined 
Farrar^s Island to the mainland, and the banks of the 
river, separated by this neck, are five miles above by the 
channel. The canal was not serviceable until after the 
Rebellion, and is only for small craft. A dike runs 
along its eastern and southern faces. In this bank was 
the cave in which the officer who controlled the torpedoes 
in the reach abreast of it had his apparatus. 

At the Dutch Gap Ganal the river turns about south- 
southwest for a mile along the east shore of Farrar''s 
Island, and then widening out turns due west for one 
and three-eighths miles, forming what is known as 

Trent's Reach, contained between Parrar's Island on 
the north, and the mainland on the south. The reach at 
its widest part is six hundred yards wide. This was the 
scene of many combats during the summer of lWo\. On 
the high banks on the south side was encamped the Army 
of the James at the time the famous '■'■bottUng-u pro- 
cess^'' went on ; in the waters of the reach lay the fleet of 



70 FROM WASHINGTOl!^ TO RICHMOND. 

gunboats and iron-clad monitors, and a line of torpedoes 
with wires leading to them from the batteries in the cave 
under the dike of Farrar's Island. The high bluff at the 
western end of the reach known as 

Hewlett's Bluff, was the Confederate battery known as 
Hewlett's. Here on the 12th of June was fought the 
battle of HowletVs Bluff. 

The river now rounds Farrar's Island, to the west end 
of Dutch Gap Canal, where it is only about one hundred 
and fifty yards wide. ISTow again it turns to the north- 
west to Graveyard Bejctch. The steep, prominent bluffs 
on the left above is the famous 

Drewry's Bluff, the battery which so long defied the 
United States w^ar vessels. It was however finally turned 
by Grant's army, and became of little importance. From 
this point to 

Richmond is only fourteen miles, and the river is 
nearly straight, somewhat wider, and much shallower. 

The spires of Richmond can be seen as soon as you 
pass the bend at Drewrifs. ITearly seven-eighths of a 
mile above the northern end of Bichmond bar, you will 
see what appears to be an island nearly in mid-river. 
This is Drewry''s Island. The river passes on the east 
side of the island, and you will see the wharves, ware- 
houses, and shipping at RochetVs, about three-fourths of 
a mile ahead on the east bank. 

Rochett's is the southern suburb of Bichmond. Here 
the river turns northwesterly, gradually widens, skirts 
the wharf-lines of Bichmond and Manchester^ and is 
crossed by bridges at the upper end of the reach. Here 
the channel-bed is filled with innumerable rocks and is- 
lands, through and among which run the dangerous 
rapids. Manchester is built upon the southwest bank, as 
Bichmond is upon the northeast or right bank. 

Richmond, in Henrico county, is beautifully situated. It was founded by 
Wm. Bird, in 1737, incorporated in 1742, and became the capital of Virginia in 
1779-80. The capitol, built in 1796, is a fine structure, and, with other public 
buildings, stands on Shockoe Hill, a plain overlooking the river. The city 
has many ancient and excellent institutions of learning, beneficiary establish- 
ments, churches and monuments. The Washington monument presents one 
of the finest monumental groups on the continent. From '861-65 Richmond 
was the capital of the Confederate States of America, and was evacuated (April 
2, 1865,) upon the defeat of the Confederate forces and downfall of the Con- 
federacy. The visitor will find much to interest him in and .<round the cfty. 



EXCXTRSIOIT V- 



From Washington to Philadelphia, New 
York and Boston, by Sea. 

Distance fkom Washington 

To Smith's Point (Mouth Potomac) . . 119 Miles. 

To Old Point Comfort 183 " 

To Philadelphia 431 " 

To Kew York City ....... 497 " 

To Boston 789 " 

TABLE OF distances 

In statute miles from 
Old Point Comfort to 

Miles. Miles. 

Capes Charles and Henry ... 20 Sandy Hook Light Vessel . . . 288 

■ ' ' ■ " Block Island 39^ 

Vineyard Sound (entrance) . . 431 
Davis South Shoal Light Vessel 

(outside course) 454 

Cape Cod L. H 547 



Winter Quarter Shoal Light Ves- 
sel lOI 

Fenwick's Island Lighthouse . 141 

Delaware Entrance 167 

Cape May 173 

Five Fathom Bank Light Vessel . 166 | Boston Entrance 597 

Earnegat 238 1 Boston 606 

Having reached Old Point Comfort (Fortress 
Monroe) or ]N orfolk by one of the commodious and 
elegantly appointed steamers from Washington — see Ex- 
cursion II. from Washington to the Mouth of the Po- 
tomac, and Excursion III. , Mouth of the Potomac to 
Norfolk — the tourist or traveler will transfer to one of 
the large and staunch steamers of the ocean line, and 
may be prepared, with favorable weather, for a delight- 
ful and invigorating voyage. 

Leavmg Norfolk, on passing Hampton Boads^ bound 
for Philadelphia, New York, or Boston, the 
steamer heads to abreast of the red buoy on the south- 
eastern end of the Middle Ground, twenty miles from 
Point Comfort. From this position, nearly in a line be- 
tween Cape Charles and Cape Henry, it heads for the 
whistling buoy at the entrance to the Chesapeake Bay. 
Thence passes Winter Quarter Shoal Lighthouse, Light 

(71) 



72 FROM WASHINGTON TO NEW YORK. 

Vessel, and Hog Island Lighthouse. When Wintei' Quar- 
ter Shoal Liglit Vessel is abeam, the course rims thirty- 
nine miles mitil Fenwick''s Island L. H. bears west a dis- 
tance of fourteen miles. At this point, if bound for 

Philadelphia, the vessel steers for Gape Henlopen^ at 
the entrance to the Delaware Bay, and thence up the 
bay and river. On this part of the voyage Chincoteaguc 
Island L. H. will be seen in the distance. 

This island is famous for its breed of ponies, and the 
abundance and variety of its game and fish. There is 
also a popular summer resort on the island. 

All the way from the capes of the Chesapeake to Bos- 
ton will be seen numerous vessels, sail and steam, of all 
kinds and tonnage, coasters and foreign, carrying the 
commodities of different climes into our own seaports, or 



CAPE CHARLES (SEE P. Jl). 

outward bound, laden with the products of our own soil 
and industrial establishments. There will hardly be a 
moment in the day that the white wings of commerce 
will not greet the vision and enliven the vast watery ex- 
panse. 

As the vessel approaches. Gape Henlopen will appear 
as a high ridge of bare white sand, surmounted by a tall 
lighthouse ; and thence will enter the broad portals of the 
bay, with Cape Henlopen on the port and Cape May on 
the starboard side, and ascend to the metropolis of Penn- 
sylvania, about ninety miles inland. 

If the steamer be bound to 

New York, when Fenwick^s Island bears west, the 
course is to Five Fathom Bank L. F. From this point the 
course to New York runs eighty miles along the Ne-m 



PHILADELPHIA AND BOSTON BY SEA. 73 

Jersey Coast^ passing in view of Absecom L. S. nine 
miles, Ticcker^s Beach L. H. seven miles, and Barnegat 
L. H. seven miles off. The shore where seen appears 
simply as a dnn blue line of woods. The immense fleets 
of vessels as far as the eye can reach will remind the 
voyager that the greatest seaport of the country is not 
far distant. 

From Barnegat L. H. to New York the course will be 
forty-two miles to the Sandy Hook L. F., and thence 
into New York Bay. 

If bound to 

Boston, the steamers usually pass outside of Nantucket 
Shoals, and therefore no land is seen from the time of 
leaving the entrance to the Delaware Bay until they 
make the eastern shore of Gape God. 



CAPE HENRY (SEE P. 71). 

Should the inner or Vineyard Sound course be taken 
from Five Fathom Bank L. V. , the steamer would head 
for Block Island, Southeast L. H., and here steer for 
Vineyard Sound, and enter Gay Head L. H, on the 
east, and Yineyard Sound L. Y. on the west, off the 
S. W. end of the Sow and Pigs Reef. On this course 
Block Island will be visible, and then the islands of the 
Elizabeth Group. The fleets of coasters take this track 
between jSTew York and Boston. 

By the usual course from the Ghesapeake to Boston, 
outside of Nantucket Shoals, from off Five Fathom Bank 
L. v., seldom visible, steamers steer for Davis'' South 
Shoals L. v., two hundred and eighty-eight miles. 
From this point they run for Chatham Lights, nmety-four 
miles, here making the ttrst land since leaving the capes 



74 FROM WASHINGTON BY SEA. 

of the Delaware. Xext to the northern one of these 
lights, at a distance of thirteen miles, will be seen the 
three Nanset Beacons, passed about four miles off, look- 
ing like three low towers on top of a white sand bluff. 
^Next appear the spruce and fir-clad Highlands of Cape 
Cod., and surmountmg them the Cajje Cod, L. H. Here 
the course changes to the westward to Bace Point L. H., 
on the eastern end of the cape, thence thirty-seven miles 
to Boston L. H. Between the Cape Cod L. H. and 
Bace Point L. H. , the shore of Cape Cod is a mass of low 
sand hillocks, occasionally covered with grass, but mostly 
bare and undulating. The spires and houses of Province- 
town are seen over the low sands. On the course for 
Boston, after leaving Bace Pointy is the famous Minot's 
Ledge L. H. It appears as a lofty gray tower, one hun- 
dred feet high, apparently standing in the water, with 
the high, rocky shores near Cohasset^ and a long, low 
sand spit, terminating in Point Allerton. The ledge 
upon which MinoVs is built is only bare at low water. 
The construction of this lighthouse was a great engmeer- 
ing achievement. The larger houses on the shore are 
generally summer hotels. 

After passing MinoVs Ledge L. S., will be seen a large 
Pell Buoy^ which in heavy weather rings from the action 
of the sea, and warns mariners of Harding^s Ledge. 
When past this. Point Allerton appears on the port, and 
when up to it, Boston L. H. on Little Brewerton Island. 
At this point Boston Harbor is entered, and the voy- 
age from Washington ended. The tall buildings of the 
city and prominent dome of the State House are visible 
from the steamer. The traveler after landing will have 
an ample field of sight-seeing at this historical and int t- 
esting city. 



EXCURSION- VI. 



From Washington to Baltimore. 



Distance from Washington 
To Point Lookout . . . 
To Baltimore 



106 Miles. 
190 '' 



TABLE OF DISTANCES TO POINTS 

On the Chesapeake Bay, Compiled by the United States 
Coast and Geodetic Survey. 

From Point Lookout to 

Miles. 

Point Look In 4 

Point No Point 7 

Cedar Point (Patuxent River) . ly 

Cove Point ''■9% 

Point of Rocks 23 

Sharp's Island 34 

Plum Point 37 

White Haven 42 

The tourist, taking a steamer at Washington for 
Baltimore, will see Excursion II. for the voyage to 
Pomt Lookout (mouth of the Potomac). 

Point Lookout is the north point of entrance to the 
Potomac, and one of the most important points on Ches- 
apeake bay. 



Miles. 
Holland's Point (Herring Bay). 45 

'J'homas Point 54 

Severn River (Annapolis) . . 58 
Highlands of the Magothy . . 63 
Seven Foot Knoll Light ... 71 

North Point 73 

Baltimore 84 




It is also the ter- 
minus of the route of the Washington and Point Look- 
out railroad. This place will doubtless become a water- 
ing-place of importance. 



76 EXCURSION FROM 

Patuxent River is over four miles wide at its mouth 
at Cedar Point. It soon contracts, its banks being but 
half a mile apart at Point Patience^ six miles above. 

The Patuxent River, in 1813-14, was the scene of the gallant Commodore 
Barney's naval operations with his little flotilla of thirteen armed barges and 
schooner Sco7'J>ion, with an aggregate of five hundred men. Barney, threat- 
ened by an overwhelming force, in July, 1814, moved up the Patuxent to Ben- 
edict, and thence to Nottingham, to be able to. co-operate against an attack on 
Washington or Baltimore. On August 16, the British squadron in the Chesa- 
peake was reinforced by a fleet of twenty-one vessels, and having on board a 
strong land force. On August 18, five thousand British regulars and marines, 
and a nnmber of impressed negroes, landed at Benedict, on the Patuxent. 
The British in the Patuxent moved up the river with their land force and a 
flotilla of barges. Reaching Nottingham, nineteen miles from Washington, 
with forty barges, August 22, they opened fire on t\i& flotilla, which had taken 
refuge under Pig Point. Barney, with four hundred seamen, had joined 




J HE MOUTH OF THE PATUXENT. 

Winder on the road to Washington, and Frazier, in obedience to instructio'iis, 
when no longer able to hold his position against overwhelming odds, blew up 
his flotilla. The British land forces, under Ross, pressed on to Washington, 
and were joined in their march by Cockburn and his seamen and marines on 
August 23. Then followed the military movements which culminated August 
24 in the stubborn conflict at Bladensburg, six miles from Washington, lasting 
from noon until 4 p. m., between about five thousand trained British troops 
and one thousand United States regulars, seamen, and marines, and four 
thousand raw militia, and ending in the flight of the bulk of the militia and 
the capture of Washington. 

The bay at Cove Point and Point of Rocks is a little 
over five miles wide. 

Sharpe's Island is one of the best known landmarks 
on the bay. 

Between Plum and Holland Points^ will be seen 
Whitehaven and Fairhayen, two favorite summer 
resorts. Wye Bivei% opposite the latter, is the site of the 
a,n.cient Lloyd estate; and here Edward Lloyd "of Wye'* 
lived in patriarchal style, having, it is said, nine hun- 
dred slaves. A portion of his descendants still reside here. 



WASHINGTON TO BALTIMORE. 77 

The north side of the entrance to Eastern Baij is 
called Kent Pointy and forms the southern extremity of 

Kent Island, famous for its fruit, especially peaches. 
Kent Island is over fourteen miles long, nearly level, and 
almost all highly cultivated. 

In the estuary east of Kent Island, on the eastern shore of Maryland, at Si. 
Michael' s, Talbot county, is a village founded by ship-builders, and where 
most of the famous " Baltimore Clippers " of the War of 1812 were built. The 
British marauder, Cockburn, was determined to destroy the place, hearing 
that seven clippers were on the stocks. He accordingly made the attack in 
August. The ship-builders and the neighboring militia, at first surprised by the 
secrecy of the British movement, soon rallied. After a sharp conflict, the 
British, who outnumbered the Americans, were driven to their boats. 



THE MOUTH OF THE SEVERN. 

Above Thomas'' Point is Tally ''s Point, the southern 
point of entrance to 

Severn River, on which Annapolis is built. The shore 
here stretches in a long line of bare sand-bhiffs, termina- 
ting at the point in a thickly-wooded bluff. The high 
dome seen over the land between this and Thomas'' 
Point is the State House dome in Annapolis. The 
United States JSTaval Academy is also located here. The 
Severn is deep, but quite narrow. 

"Windmill Point, near Annapolis, was the scene of the grounding and burn- 
ing of the ship Peggy, Captain Stewart, from London, having on board an as- 
sorted cargo, and seventeen packages — the first to arrive in the colony — of that 
proscribed article, tea. The people of Maryland took a decided stand against 
the tyrannous measures of the King and Parliament, beginning with the stamp 
act. The vessel arrived on Saturday, October 15, 1774. The following Wed- 
nesday a meeting of the people of the town and adjacent country was held at 
Annapolis. It was resolved to destroy the vessel and the tea; and under the 
advice of Charles Carroll, of Carrollton. later one of the signers, of the Declara- 
tion of Independ-ence, Anthony Stewart, the proprietor of the vessel, and who 
had paid duty on the tea for the consignees, set fire to her himself. 



78 WASHINGTOISr TO BALTIMORE. 

On the north side of Sandy Pointy on the west shore 
of the bay, is the entrance to 

Magothy River, and '•'■The Highlands of Magothy^^'' a 
well-known landmark in coming up to Baltimore. The 
island on which the highlands are situated is kno^vn as 
Gihson''s Island. 

From this point to the mouth of the Patapsco, the 
scene is usually a very animated one, the waters behig 
crowded with all kinds of craft. Seven Foot Knoll L. 
H:, is a little over one and a half miles off. 

Bodkin Point the southern point and 

North Point the northern point of entrance to the 
Patapsco. 






HIGHLANDS i)F THE MAGOTHY. 

North Point was the scene of the landing of the British, September 12, 1814, 
comprising 5000 veteran troops, 2000 seamen, and 2000 marines, preliminary 
to an attack on Baltimore. The British fleet to co-operate on the river con- 
sisted of fifty sail. Ross, the British commander, boasted that he would dine 
in " Baltimore or hell " the following Sunday. In a desperate action the same 
day, seven miles from North Point, and the same from Baltimore, Ross was 
mortally wounded, and died before he reached the fleet. The Americans 
were finally overwhelmed, and withdrew to Fort McHenry. The enemy the 
next day moved up to the Fort, and made preparations for attack. 

North Point is quite a summer resort. So also is Sha- 
non Pointy where is situated Holly Grove. 

Abreast of Hawkins Point the river is only one and 
one-half mile wide ; and almost in the middle appear 
the remains of a granite fort standing in the water. 
This is 

Fort Carroll, one side appearing to be broken down 
entirely. On its southern wall is a tower of open-work, 
which supports the light and fog-bell. Fort Carroll was 
built on the end of the shoal making off from Soller''s 
Point on the north shore. There is a small settlement 
here. 






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80 WASHINGTON TO BALTIMORE. 

Leading Point is a bluff, sandy point, twenty feet high. 

Fishing Point is two and a half miles below Fort Mc- 
Henry. Above Flsldny Point makes in a wide arm of 
the river, Avliich leads through Smith''s Cove to Bidgeley^s 
Cove^ on the south front of Baltimore. On the north 
side of this entrance is 

Fort McHenry, of famous memory for its successful de- 
fence, September 13-14, 1814, by a small garrison against 
a night assault supported by tlie whole strength of the 
J3ritish land and naval forces, flushed with the victory of 
North Point. It was the anxiety of the citizens of Bal- 
timore concerning the fate of Fort McHennj that dread- 
ful night, which suggested to Francis S. Key, of the 
Georgetown (D. C.) Light Artillery, the immortal lines 
of ''The Star Spangled Banner." 

Fort McHenry appears when first seen as a large earth- 
work surrounding a fort of gray masonry, in the middle 
of which appear the barracks, painted yellow. The point 
on which the fort is built is graded to the slope of the 
glacis and carefully sodded. 

Lazaretto Point, on the opposite bank, is known by 
the white light-tower on its extremity. At Lazaretto 
Pointy the width of the river between it and Fort Mc- 
Henry is but five hundred and fifty yards, but the depth 
is not less than twenty -six feet at low tide, and entirely 
unobstructed. 

Passing between Font McHenry and Lazaretto Point., 
we are in 

Baltimore Harbor, and the city, with its wharves and 
shipping and buildings, is before and around us. The 
only noticeable natural feature is Federal Hill, with the 
remains of an earthwork on top, now utilized as the site 
of a pyramidal wooden structure, used as a signal tower 
for signaling the approach of vessels from the bay. 

Vessels usually anchor off FelVs Point, which is 
directly ahead as the steamer approaches between Fort 
McHenry and Lazaretto Point. The cove to the east- 
ward of it is called Canton- Hollow, that to the westward 
is known as '^ The Basin.'''' This water is fresh, except 
in strong southerly winds ; but it is not drinkable. 

The tourist now leaves the steamer, and will find much 
to interest hira m this beautiful metropolis. 



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